Karla Derry
Unlike any taqueria in Nashville, Succulent Vegan Tacos serves 100 percent plant-based fare rooted in the authentic flavors of Mexico.
Co-founder and chef Adriana Ortega grew up in Mexico City immersed in its vibrant tastes and culinary traditions. When she and her husband Ronald Cerdas moved to Nashville 20 years ago, she could not find any foods that resembled what she knew and loved. It set her on a quest to replicate those recipes, with a particular focus on diet and lifestyle: She and Cerdas are longtime vegetarians who have become vegan.
“Back then, every time I hosted a party, the food was a big success. My friends were surprised that my food was authentic and 100% vegan,” Ortega recalls. “They encouraged me to start my own business. I kept that idea in the back of my mind.”
As Nashville’s culinary landscape grew and people became more open to plant-based eating, it gave her the impetus to start that business. In 2017, while still working their primary jobs, Ortega and Cerdas launched Succulent Vegan Tacos as a pop-up in Grow Local Kitchen at the Nashville Farmers Market. The response was enthusiastic. This business incubator program gave them the opportunity to hone their recipes and build a following, with the idea that someday they would have a permanent restaurant of their own.
That time has arrived. While the couple searched out other neighborhoods, they were excited when an opening inside NFM’s Market House became available. With a ready following, it felt it like the right community for their concept.
Look for the kiosk with brightly painted cactus imagery. (Shout-out to the women artists of I Saw the Sign.) The menu is concise: four different Mexico City style street tacos—all vegan—along with side dishes of beans, rice, and street corn. Check out the Comida Del Dia (Daily Special). If available, the soy-stuffed Chile Relleno is a must-have.
Karla Derry
Two of the tacos mimic meat to remarkable effect. Seitan seasoned in spices and dried chiles replaces pork in the traditional Al Pastor, served on griddled corn tortillas with diced pineapple, onion, and cilantro. Marinated, grilled soy fills the Asada with beefy texture and taste. Meat lovers will not miss the meat. For those not wanting meat substitutes, both Papas—sautéed potatoes and kale in roasted tomatillo sauce—and Tinga—carrots slow-cooked in chipotle sauce with refried black beans and cilantro—highlight the vegetables.
Karla Derry
As the business ramps up, the couple will add tortas and tamales to the menu. For dessert, Ortega makes the quintessential Mexican pan dulce: concha. Typically, this seashell shaped sweet roll has a sugar cookie crumb topping and is sometimes cream filled. Ortega’s vegan version is light and yeasty, and her whipped filling tastes like cream. She will make seasonal changes to the cookie topping. Fall was all about pumpkin spice. Look for chocolate and mint for the December holidays.
Ortega makes a convincing case for plant-based eating. No animals are harmed, no flavors true to her traditions are compromised, and her dishes are satisfying and delicious.
“This is not just a business,” she says. “This is my passion and my heritage.”
Inside the Market House of the Nashville Farmers Market, 900 Rosa Parks Blvd.; facebook.com/SucculentVeganTacos