Erin Byers Murray
September can be a tricky month for weather-related wine pairings. It’s hot all month long, but signs of fall are already on the menu.
Now’s the time to get to know Riesling, a good straddling wine that will carry you into the cooler nights. Rieslings run from sweet to dry, which you can usually decipher by the ABV: If it’s 9% or lower, it will tend to run sweet. There are great examples of both listed here, with an emphasis on drier styles, which have enough acidity to match the earthy flavors and aromatic herbs that pop up this time of year. Oh, and we’ve got one great glass to try, too.
LOOSEN BROS. DR. L RIESLING 2018
This lower ABV (8.5%) from Mosel, Germany, is a solid gateway Riesling if you like sweeter-style wines. There’s honeysuckle, pear, and a hit of citrus on the nose, and you’ll pick up slate and minerals from the region’s soil, as well as a long, soft finish. Open this early in the evening: The low alcohol makes it drink like an aperitif. $14.99; Whole Foods
WEISER-KUNSTLER TRARBACHER SCHLOSSBERG RIESLING KABINETT 2019
An off-dry (read: not cloying) German wine, this is a balanced, barely sweet style of Riesling. You’ll get a little honeyed sugar at the start of the sip, but that’s washed away by a layer of minerality, where white flowers, pear, and herbal notes take over. Pop this open and serve with a delicate ceviche or soft cheeses. $30, Woodland Wine Merchant
BRAND RIESLING TROCKEN 2018
This high acid Riesling comes from a village in the cool climate of Northern Germany; it’s produced by brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand using wild yeasts and organic and biodynamic grapes. The one liter bottle contains a bright, zingy wine with a lot of apple and pear and the tiniest bit of petrol. (It’s a good thing!) This one’s well-balanced and will match up nicely with your next plate of oysters. $20; Woodland Wine Merchant
SCRIBE ESTATE RIESLING 2019
Run by two young, wine-making brothers in Sonoma County, Scribe is known for its fresh approach to winemaking. Their Riesling starts with a beguiling aroma on the nose: woodsy, floral, and aromatic all at once. The sip itself is restrained in its acidity with no residual sugar—instead, it’s all minerality, stone fruit, and a lingering finish. Drink this on the patio with the setting sun. $38; Craft Brewed and Woodland Wine Merchant
SWICK RIESLING 2019
The boldest Riesling on this list, Swick sources its grapes from an organically farmed vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains of Oregon. This small winery presses the grapes and allows the native yeasts to start fermentation before letting it rest in neutral French oak barrels for eight months. That lengthy rest brings body and a caramel-infused nuttiness to the nose. In the mouth, you’ll get pink grapefruit, spices, vanilla and apple—it almost drinks like an uncarbonated cider and will be good with a quality aged gouda. $25; Woodland Wine Merchant
GIVE THIS GLASS A GO
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Stemware expert Riedel introduced a new, non-traditional wine glass this spring. The Riedel Winewings Riesling glass is inspired by the wings of an airplane—the wide surface area at the base allows the wine to aerate in the glass, while the top collects the aromas. It’s an odd bit of design that feels like drinking from an oversized saucer—but what you get is a tasting experience that emphasizes Riesling’s minerality while balancing out its high acidity and fruit-forwardness. $35 per glass; riedel.com