Offering elegant dining in a meld of timeless design and modernity, Blue Aster is a feast for the senses.
On the main level of the newly opened Conrad Nashville, the restaurant visually beckons with an array of serene blues: on the walls; the upholstered dining chairs; and the fine linen napkins, all of which contrast against dark wood tables and flooring. Copper appointments like table lanterns, salt and pepper grinders, and warming lamps suspended over the open kitchen counter gleam under the chandeliers, which resemble long curved branches. This is a place to escape the chaos of the day and revel in the calm.
Aromatics come into play in unexpected ways. Order the eponymously named signature cocktail inspired by the classic Aviation, an icy stir of gin, hibiscus amaro, and blueberry syrup that arrives in an etched glass coupe topped with a bubble, which releases a smoky floral scent when it pops. Complimentary bread service—uber-buttery yeast rolls—is presented on a warm baking stone accompanied by a bundle of fresh rosemary, thyme, and dill. Your server places the bouquet onto the stone, imparting a wonderful herbal fragrance. It’s gratifying to have your sense of smell engaged in such ways before you’ve even taken your first bite.
And that first bite of butter-rich roll is absolutely delicious, portending all good tastes to follow. Executive Chef Dwayne Edwards was brought on board to design the menu, a balance of high-end seafood-driven specialties and locally sourced produce. Indeed, the restaurant is named for the native Tennessee wildflower, and highlighting what makes our region distinctive was one of the goals.
“I wanted to curate an experience that features the seasonal bounty of the middle Tennessee countryside,” Edwards says, “paired with the best seafoods from around the world.”
Beverage Director David Lim took a similar stance in designing the cocktail menu that, as he says, “consists of drinks that are well-balanced takes on classics. By taking the road less traveled, I believe that riffs on simple classics provide guests with a unique refreshing experience.” From the raw bar, you can choose pristine oysters and raspberry-pink peppercorn mignonette, jumbo prawn cocktail with fresh horseradish-tomato jam, or scallop ceviche drenched in serrano chile lime juice. Such decisions are difficult, but readily mitigated by ordering the Chilled Seafood Platter. It includes all the aforementioned fruits of the sea, plus half a Maine lobster, hunks of King Crab legs, a quartet of sauces (including lemon curd aioli and Cajun remoulade), and deep-fried saltines. This is swoon-worthy stuff—the makings of a celebration—down to those saltines, which have a curious addictive quality.
The bounty of local and regional produce is showcased in the for-the-table offering called Nashville Grown Market Stand. It’s a handsome assembly of raw, roasted, pickled, and fried vegetables served with a trio of lush dips: hummus, green goddess, and roasted peanut romesco. (Word: that romesco trends Thai in taste and is the most compelling of the three.) The dish is replete with delectable, unanticipated preparations: sweet potato chips, kale chips, crunchy fried okra, pickled ramps, a variety of heirloom tomatoes, tri-colored cauliflower florets, and roasted petite red and yellow bell peppers.
Another Southern-inspired dish fun for sharing is the Pimento Cheese Fondue, which cleverly supplies hush puppies for dunking. We’d be remiss if we didn’t mention the Summer Corn Soup. This lavish presentation begins with a mound of lobster-fennel-charred corn salad centered in the bowl. Your server, tableside, pours the rich coconut milk-based broth to surround it. The combo of corn and coconut milk makes it reminiscent of the popular Thai coconut soup Tom Ka Kai, and the generous serving of lobster makes it a luxurious summer bisque.
À la carte selections from the grill include a buttery plank of Chilean Sea Bass and fillet of Wild Caught Salmon. Not feeling fish? Four different cuts of Linz heritage Angus beef from prime New York strip to dry-aged Cowboy ribeye are there for the asking, with your choice of bearnaise, chimichurri, green peppercorn, and house steak sauce. Order a side of za’atar roasted heirloom carrots with cashew crème fraiche or the Mac & Cheese, indulgent with its pimento cheese sauce and saltine cracker crust.
Entrees are complex and exhibit creativity. King Crab pasta is not to be missed. It features spaghetti alla chittara—square-shaped (in cross-section) egg pasta relished for its singular texture. Sauce—in this instance, the Basque specialty, Biscayne— clings to the strands. Sugar snap peas, leeks, and chunks of King crabmeat are folded throughout. We also enjoyed the Roasted Lamb rib chops, which come placed over links of Merguez sausage, chestnut mushrooms, and fried grit cake. With panache, your server pours the jus over the rack at the table. There are a few vegetarian dishes, but the roasted cauliflower steak with bulgur wheat and wild ramp pesto is a fine option.
From the roster of desserts, the multi-layer chocolate cake with salted caramel meets expectations. There are other creative confections to tempt you. We recommend the Hummingbird Cake, a classic Southern recipe reimagined with candied pecans and dried pineapple bits. Or the Banana Trifle, silken custard layered in a stemmed glass with house made vanilla wafer crumbles, toffee bits and brûléed banana. Each spoonful is pure pleasure. A perfect finish to a divine dining experience.