VICTORIA QUIRK
VICTORIA QUIRK
VICTORIA QUIRK
VICTORIA QUIRK
VICTORIA QUIRK
Nearly a decade in the making, Southall has been an ambitious project composed of an idyllic farm, inn, resort, spa, market, event center, teaching kitchen, and dining destination set on more than 325 acres.
When it opened to guests in December 2022, one of its key components, its chef-d’oeuvre, had yet to be realized: its signature fine dining restaurant, January. That wait is over, and patience is rewarded. Under the guidance of chefs Andrew Klamar and Nate Leonard, January brings together the ethos and the ingredients of Southall in ways that are innovative, memorable, and delicious. Your journey to January heightens the anticipation. Just leaving the city for the roll and ramble of the country drive is part of the experience. Drive up Osage Loop to the check-in booth — access to the property (with the exception of the Farm Stand) is solely by reservation. Pull up to the front of the Inn and valet will take care of your vehicle. You’ll be greeted inside the grand entry. Walk to the back past Sojourner, Southall’s more casual, all-day restaurant.
Here you’ll find January, a beautiful space that embodies an understated grandeur. It has a modern farmhouse aesthetic with rustic elements, where expansive windows bring the outside in. No matter the season, you’ll feel connected to and in awe of the natural surroundings. You’ll also notice the open kitchen, fragrant from the wood-fired grill. Described as “seed-to-fork,” January sets itself apart in its hyper-access to what’s in season. So much of the menu is influenced by the harvests from Southall’s orchards and fields, its remarkable apiary, and the year-round fresh lettuces from Greener Roots’ onsite hydroponic greenhouse.
“We prioritize produce straight from the farm, leading to a menu rich in vegetable-focused dishes,” says Chef Klamar. “This approach keeps us adaptable and creatively engaged. We are committed to capturing the essence of the moment; what’s happening right here in Middle Tennessee.”
That sense of immediacy means an ever- changing menu divided into three parts: starters, first, and main courses. (Yes, there’s a separate dessert menu!) The dinner we experienced will give you an idea of the kinds and quality of offerings, even if the dishes described are no longer available. Likewise, the beverage listing shifts seasonally, but offers several lush cocktails (i.e., the Southall variation on an Old Fashioned, which melds rye and bourbon brightened with lemon, star anise, and Southall honey) and compelling wines by the glass and bottle. Servers are well-versed on all menu items and can help guide your process. Your meal begins with an amuse-bouche gift from the kitchen. Ours was a sweet potato biscuit round layered with folds of house cured-and- smoked duck ham, duck fat aioli, and chowchow.
“It’s a perfect example of the collaborative nature of our kitchen,” Klamar says. Klamar was curing duck ham; a sous-chef had been experimenting with the biscuit; Leonard had duck fat leftover from a confit that he thought would make a terrific aioli; and The Jammery (Southall’s teaching/preservation kitchen) Chef Richard Jones made chowchow. All four elements came together to make something absolutely delicious.
One menu constant, the Parker House Rolls and whip of Southall honey butter, is not to be missed. A quartet of impossibly tall, butter-rich rolls have dark burnished crust yielding ethereal interiors, and the tops are strewn with chippy salt. Each is a pure pleasure to eat. A salad made with the array of Greener Roots’ greens harvested right on the property can’t help but be superb. Ours combined tender lettuces with grapefruit and fennel in a champagne vinaigrette, which magnified the fresh and varied flavors of the mélange. We also chose the soup, Sweet Potato-Apple Bisque (apples from the Southall orchard!) and were surprised by how much we loved it. The naturally savory-sweet purée was sparked with Vadouvan — a French derivative of Masala curry. Finishing touches included smoked trout roe, nasturtium petals, and a swirl of Meyer lemon oil. Finally, the Parisienne Gnocchi surpassed expectation. The delicate pillows arrived puffed and golden, baked in bubbly creamed spinach, Gruyère, and bacon.
The chefs source responsibly raised meats and poultry from local and regional producers such as Bear Creek Ranch and Joyce Farms. They also have access to pristine fish and seafood, flown in daily and utilized in starter and main courses. The team’s excitement over the Hamachi Crudo is warranted; the fine cuts of yellowtail in hibiscus syrup and pickled strawberries (both preserved from last year) are scattered with a shock of redbud flowers. The Wood Grilled Oyster plate is brilliant in concept and execution. The bivalves are both grilled and smoked-kissed before being cloaked in their “chowder-style” sauce. Klamar and the team top each one with a petite oyster cracker, made in-house. From the list of entrees, we recommend the Arctic Char. It is a richly flavored fish, akin to salmon and trout. The fillet is firm yet delicate, and slightly smoky from the grill. Pecan salsa accentuates its nutlike taste, and the char is wreathed in greens, pickled ramps, and edible flowers from the farm.
The team takes pride in dry-aging the steaks on-site, and their preparation over the wood- fired grill yields a succulent, deeply flavored cut. On this visit, we chose the bone-in short rib, tenderized in a 48-hour sous vide bath before its time on the grill. This shareable entree takes on Asian notes, rubbed in green chile spices and finished in green curry sauce. It is accompanied by bowls of kimchi, basmati rice, and shiso leaves. You can carve the beef and wrap it inside the leaves with a bit of rice and vegetables.
Pastry Chefs Joshua House and Emma Livingston create a stunning rotation of confections to tempt you. Offerings include a rum-flamed lemon meringue ball sweetened with Southall honey; a stack of espresso and chocolate-hazelnut delights in the forms of coffee Bavarian cream, dark chocolate slab, and feuilletine crunch; and a layered bar of white chocolate mousse, yuzu curd, and matcha shortbread crumb. As a parting gift, they also will treat you to a handcrafted bonbon.
Chef Klamar is grateful for the support of his team. In particular, his long-standing friend and collaborator, Chef Leonard. Now that the dream of January is a bustling reality, he looks forward to what the seasonal transitions will bring.
“We’re excited for green garlic and peas, beautiful strawberries, Swiss chards, and kales,” he says. “These are just a glimpse into the bounty we’re eager to work with. Guests can expect an emphasis on technique to bring out the best in ingredients as we explore these culinary frontiers.”
(2200 Osage Loop, Franklin, 615-282- 2000; januarytn.com)