Saint Stephen, the first Christian martyr, was a deacon of the early church, appointed by the Apostles who cared for the poor, distributing alms and food. “Saint Stephen” is also a classic rock anthem written in 1968 by Jerry Garcia, Phil Lesh, and Robert Hunter.
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Erica Brechtelsbauer
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Erica Brechtelsbauer
Executive chef and self-described Deadhead RJ Cooper chose to name his restaurant after saint and song, embodying soulful care and creativity.
“Whether you’re writing a great song or cooking great food—you’re telling a story, creating harmonies, striking balance,” he says.
Cooper, who made his Nashville debut as Henley’s opening chef, took over chef Tandy Wilson’s Mop/Broom Mess Hall in Germantown—effectively a transfer from one James Beard award winner to another. He made modest changes to the building—lightened walls, dimmed lighting—and assembled a menu that demonstrates his approachable fine dining. It’s a neighborly, come-as-you-are, flip-flops for foie gras philosophy.
Erica Brechtelsbauer
Under the “nosh” part of the menu, the fried chicken skins make terrific bites to accompany a cold brew or a cocktail—Cooper will tell you his favorite is a potent stir of Corsair’s Triple Smoked bourbon, smoked simple syrup, and burnt orange he calls “Big Bad Chef.”
Deviled eggs get a makeover unlike anywhere else: soft-cooked, anchored in tonnato sauce and topped with anchovy, lemon breadcrumbs, and togarashi spices. A round of the house sweet onion foccaccia arrives warm, ready for you to pull apart, swipe through Georgia green peanut oil and spread with roasted garlic. You’ll also want it to mop up the delectable sauces and butters in many of the plates that follow.
Plates are listed in progression of size, to share or not. And, you won’t want to share the agnolotti. When we tried them, the little pillows of handcrafted pasta were stuffed with luscious (and shockingly pink) beet-and-goat cheese puree.
Other plates that satisfy the palate include delicately cured yellowtail hamachi with green mango, peanuts, and Fresno chili and barely torched diver scallops (essentially a crudo) in a pool of dill and fennel laced buttermilk.
Erica Brechtelsbauer
Maybe you want something more down-to-earth? The cheeseburger slathered in black garlic aioli and mounded with grilled pickled onions is a winner. So is the mac and cheese, amply laced with ham and peas. Cooper’s barbecued lamb ribs are rubbed in dukkah spices and grilled, the meat is rich, tender, fatty, and absolutely delicious. They come with charred cucumber, smoked yogurt, and a lime wedge to spritz over the ribs.
The menu also has a “Limited Supply” category—larger format dishes serving two to four. A heritage pork belly porchetta that’s been smoked is one of those offerings.
Erica Brechtelsbauer
There are wonderful creative desserts that, like the rest of the menu, will change with the seasons, but we hope the decadent Caramel Chocoloate Mousse, served with a malted meringue and smoked cocoa nibs will remain a constant.
It’s also worth noting that Cooper offers a nightly Chef’s Tasting Counter menu (go through Resy to get your ticket in advance), which is seven or more courses of his whim, where you might get the first soft-shell crab of the season, dip into a lush green fava and spring pea soup, or roll up a slice of the house-cured Mangalista coppa with ossetra caviar. Now that sounds heavenly.
Saint Stephen, 1300 3rdAve. N., 615-974-0121; saintstephennash.com