When Billy Dec opened Sunda New Asian in the Gulch in 2018, he was inspired by his Filipino roots.
“I think Filipino food is one of the most underestimated culinary genres around,” he says. “It’s incredibly diverse, uniquely flavorful, and always evolving. With a colorful history of colonization, trade, travel, welcoming of other cultures, ingredients, and cooking styles, it has made it very hard over time to pinpoint exactly what Filipino food’s limits have been at any one time in any one of the different islands and the rest of the world, which I think is a super strength, making it the genre to explore.”
And what better time to explore the cuisine than October—Filipino American History Month? Try cooking a beloved Filipino dish at home, namely Dec’s Chicken Insal.
“I really love [this dish],” he says. “The marinade is extremely bright, aromatic, citrusy, and full of umami, which is an awesomely powerful combination. One of my favorite parts of Sunda’s Chicken Inasal is when making it on the grill at home, the unique hints of lemongrass, garlic, ginger, and achiote all play together. From the aroma when it hits the grill or sauté pan to putting it on a salad, brown rice, grilled veggies, or just enjoying it on its own, I love it!”
It’s one of many dishes on Sunda’s menu—which also includes elevated cuisine from Japan, China, and other countries throughout Southeast Asia— that pays tribute to Dec’s family heritage.
“My Lola (grandma in Tagalog, the native language of my family in the Islands of the Philippines), was one of the most amazing cooks. I still hear people rave about her, and her higher level of care, heart, love, and welcome in the way she lived, influenced my path in hospitality, including the creation and growth of Sunda, which we are expanding into other cities like Tampa and Chicago,” he says. “I watched her prep and cook every single day as she helped raise me and my siblings, taking so much care in sharing the process, flavors, and tradition. I only wish she was still with us to try the handful of Filipino favorites she fed us growing up, I know she would be proud. I miss her a lot.”
(Sunda New Asian, 592 12th Ave. S., 615-610-7566; sundanewasian.com)
Chicken Insal
(Makes 4 servings)
- Chicken Marinade
- 4 chicken breasts
- 1⁄2 cup apple cider vinegar
- 1⁄2 cup lemon juice
- 1⁄2 cup fish sauce (red boat brand)
- 1⁄2 cup ginger, minced
- 1⁄2 cup garlic, minced
- 1⁄2 cup lemongrass, chopped (white part only)
- 1 cup brown sugar Black pepper to taste
Glaze
- 2 oz achiote paste
- 1 oz lemon juice
- 1⁄4 lb butter
Directions:
- Put achiote and lemon juice in small pot over low heat. Using a fork, mash the paste. Slowly mount in butter in small amounts at a time over medium heat. Set aside. In a bowl, combine chicken breast with Inasal Marinade. Marinate for four to six hours in the fridge.
To Cook:
- Take chicken out of the fridge and pat the marinade dry. Place chicken on a well- seasoned grill or heavy cast iron skillet. Sear both sides until the internal temperature reaches 165 degrees. While cooking, baste the chicken with the glaze. Serve over steamed rice.