Kimberly Garvey
In Cool Springs’ dizzying sprawl of chain restaurants, Mi Kitchen is the not-so-hidden indie gem you wished you’d heard about sooner.
Opened in April 2023 in a strip mall along Carothers Parkway, this modern Asian tapas restaurant and bar offers a sumptuous array of creative fusion dishes, each beautifully presented and served in a welcoming ambiance.
The name is a perfect play on words: “Mi” means beauty in Korean, taste in Japanese, rice in Chinese, and the possessive my in Spanish. The kitchen of Brendan Yun and Nick Rho—Chef Yun and Chef Nick as they prefer to be known— embodies all of those facets. Both men are originally from South Korea; Yun completed his culinary studies in his homeland before coming to the United States in 2010; Rho arrived in 2007 to attend the French Culinary Institute in New York City. They met in 2012 at work in the same Korean restaurant. Over ten years, they forged a friendship, sometimes cooking in the same kitchen, other times not. As they developed their style, they also forged the goal of launching a concept together of their own making. The pandemic gave them the impetus to do just that.
“I love New York, but we became tired of that lifestyle and were ready to do our own venture,” says Yun. “We thought, ‘Let’s go to another state.’”
“We had the experience. And we had great ideas and recipes for our place,” Rho says.
Yun and his wife Chloe had taken a vacation to Nashville and loved it. They also saw the potential, relaying the growth and development of the area to Rho and his wife Tori on their return. The challenge accepted, the decision was made: They all headed to Music City, not knowing one person there. In the current environment, finding the right location can be tricky. Yun and Rho felt fortunate to come across a place in Cool Springs that would work: a barbecue joint that had gone out of business.
They could readily envision how to keep some of the elements—the built-in booths, the expansive bar— while making it their own. With the addition of new lighting (stunning chandeliers!) and lengths of fabric decorated with Korean symbols, they have given the space their character, which Yun calls “a fusion of Asian and antique.”
Fusion holds true for the menu, as well. The chefs have divided it into categories of Tapas, Noodle, Donburi, Taco, and Dessert. Dietary restrictions? Each item has its designation for vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, and dairy-free. They offer a full bar with a fine selection of sakes, beers, natural wines, and soju-infused drinks. Soju is the distilled rice-grain beverage particular to and popular in Korea; look under the listing of “Capri Moon,” a clever play on the pouches of Capri Sun fruit punches you loved as a kid. You’ll find seven combinations of juices and soju, including mango, lychee, and yuzu, each served in its own pouch with a straw.
In tapas fashion, you’ll want to order a series of plates to share. In our experience, you can’t go wrong with any choice. Go with a group and dine on a feast of tastes. A platter of hand-crafted steamed dumplings filled with puréed edamame is a good place to start. The supple wraps are drizzled in citrus- truffle oil and garnished with radish, cilantro, and a sprinkle of parmesan. You’ll also relish the cucumber macerated in garlicky soy vinaigrette and chili crisp—biting yet refreshing. Korean fried chicken—the other “KFC”—is beyond finger- lickin’ good: order a platter of K-Pop, delectable boneless chunks deep-fried to a toothsome crunch, coated in sweet-and-spicy sauce. The dish simply named Steak is excellent. The chefs have concocted a honey-soy glaze that brings a depth of flavor to a piece of New York strip. Generously peppered, sauced, and seared to medium rare, their process yields succulent meat. More creativity with fusion flavors: Feta grits and cherry tomato kimchi accompany the beef.
Kimberly Garvey
The menu reveals more evidence of international melds: Kimchi Risotto, where saffron-scented rice is combined with grilled shrimp and caramelized kimchi; Veggie Donburi, a Japanese-inspired rice bowl is capped with crispy cauliflower, creamy miso, shallots, thin slices of cucumber. And, of course, the Tacos. Beef features a luscious combination of Bulgogi— Korean marinated, barbecued beef—with pico de gallo, lettuce, and chipotle aioli filling the tortilla. Tender grilled Jaeyook pork and pineapple spooned with sauce blanco is a kind of Korean version of Al Pastor. Both are terrific. Glass Noodles (otherwise known as Japchae) adhere more closely to tradition and are not to be missed. The bouncy translucent strands made from sweet potato starch come stir-fried with mushrooms, snow peas, shredded chili skin, and French radishes.
There are only two desserts, but no matter. We recommend both. The Caramelato has scoops of vanilla bean gelato pressed with toasted cereal for an amazing crunch that shines under a pour of caramel sauce. The Bread Pudding has Valrhona Jivara chocolate chips interspersed throughout the saucy bread, a mixed berry compote drenching the vanilla gelato. Either would make a satisfying ending to a Mi Kitchen meal.
Chefs Yun and Nick have another restaurant in the works. They are not ready to divulge the details, but folks can get excited to experience their food and flair in East Nashville later this year. In the meantime, head to Mi Kitchen—for beauty, taste, rice, and more. (9050 Carothers Pkwy., #104, Franklin, 615-905-5188; mikitchen-f ranklin.com)