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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
Since its 1992 inception, Anthony Scotto Jr.’s family-owned restaurant, Fresco by Scotto, has been praised in New York for its posh yet approachable Italian fare and warm, informed service.
The acclaimed restaurateur’s attention turned to Nashville five years ago, when his daughter Gabriella enrolled in Belmont University to pursue her education in music. Over the course of many visits, he and wife Theresa became captivated by Music City, a feeling that led to major life decisions: a change of residence and first solo restaurant, Luogo. They’ve transformed the space vacated by Fin & Pearl and, later, Pemrose in the 1212 Building, introducing Nashville to the enduring and endearing Scotto brand of Italian food and hospitality.
“This project has been a true family affair as I’ve worked alongside my wife, daughter, and son to create every detail of Luogo,” says Scotto. “We could not be more excited to make Nashville our home and serve up the most authentic Italian in the South.”
Luogo is Italian for “place,” in this case, embracing a Mediterranean sense of place. The contemporary open floor plan, which includes a bar, lounge, expansive dining room, and private dining space, is done in hues of white, ocean blue, turquoise, and yellow. A charming lemon grove mural by local artist Maggie Sanger brightens accent walls in one corner.
Many of the cocktails exemplify that breezy coastal vibe, none better than the Amalfi Aperitivo—a balloon glass of Piedmont amaro, sparkling rosé, and soda, imbued with citrus and herbal notes from blood orange and elderflower respectively.
Luogo’s menu is replete with beloved staple dishes from the New York restaurant. Foremost is the tower of potato and zucchini chips with dollops of Gorgonzola melted throughout the crisps. The Frito Misto, an assembly of shrimp, octopus, and calamari battered and fried with a similar light touch makes another great share, especially flavorful when dunked in the caper aioli. (For gluten free diners this one is a big deal—the components are fried in gluten free flour in a dedicated fryer.) Other dishes ideal for the table include the grilled Margherita pizza—an ultra-thin crust topped with tomato, Bel Paese and pecorino cheeses, and basil, and the trio of dips (lemon-ricotta, cannellini and baccala) served with grilled pastry triangles made of the same pizza dough.
For a refreshing intermezzo, order the Winter Salad. Layering the mound of tri-color leaf lettuces are beets, pears, and watermelon radishes dressed in red wine vinaigrette and shavings of ricotta salata. Luogo’s kitchen is helmed by Executive Chef Nicola Bauchi, and his pastas rule. You’ll be hard-pressed to choose but well-pleased with any selection. A combination of ground beef and chicken comprises Bauchi’s Bolognese sauce, which cloaks the big tubes of Paccheri pasta, dusted in Parmigiano-Reggiano. His rich duck confit ragu pairs beautifully with the house- made ribbons of papparadelle. After preparing Manila clams in a quick sauté of garlic, parsley, and Calabrian chilis in white wine, Bauchi folds al dente spaghettini into the sweet briny melange. (Most of the pastas are also offered in a gluten free version, thanks in no small part to Scotto’s wife who herself has Celiac disease.)
Mayter Scott
You’ll find rustic comforts throughout the roster of entrees. Post-roasting, the bone-in Chicken Cacciatore is finished in a lush white wine reduction, incorporating fresh herbs, green olives, and new potatoes. A thick, Neapolitan-inspired sauce of tomatoes, peppers and onions blankets the grilled Sirloin Pizzaiola. Not-to-miss sides include sautéed Broccoli Rapini and Creamy Polenta.
Yes, there is Tiramisu, and it arrives in the most charming vehicle: the Moka pot, the iconic stovetop espresso maker. Be sure to ask for an extra spoon to share the silken dessert. Should you want something lighter, try a scoop of the gelato of the moment, or the tangy lemon sorbet.
Scotto and team have the passion and experience to make Luogo a Nashville mainstay, as in, let’s meet up at “that Italian Place.” “The community and camaraderie of the people here is contagious,” says Scotto. “So, when it came time to open my first solo concept, I could only envision it in Nashville.”
(211 12th Ave. S., 615-988-8200; luogorestaurant.com)