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Conceived in the pandemic, FatBelly Pretzel began as a pop-up where Chef Levon Wallace and his family sold his endearingly shaped, exceptionally delicious pretzels and signature dips at area farmers markets.
Over a two-year span, he expanded the fare to include a creative array of pretzel-inspired sandwiches, pastries, and cookies as demand for FatBelly goods continually grew. In late October, the business made the transition to brick-and-mortar. With Carey Bringle of Peg Leg Porker fame as partner and advisor, Levon and his wife Kim opened FatBelly Pretzel Bakery & Deli on Gallatin Avenue in a former donut shop.
“Spread Love Like Mustard” is their slogan, and there’s a lot of love to spread. Mornings can start either sweet or savory. In the display case, along with those “almost world famous” skinny-armed, fat-bellied twists, you’ll see pretzel danishes, babkas, and “stuffedbelly” pretzels. You’ll delight in the contrast of shiny crusts and fluffy interiors, evidenced in the first bite of a blueberry cream cheese danish or a jalapeño-cheddar stuffed pretzel. (Note: they will warm them for you, making them even better!) You can also get a hearty Breakfast Sando on a toasted pretzel-potato roll—you’ll see several wrapped up inside the counter warming oven, ready to grab and go. This marvel has everything: hash brown patty and scrambled egg under a melt of American cheese, brown sugar bacon, and the house sauce.
Levon has developed a terrific roster of deli sandwiches. Each comes generously packed with a compelling combo of savory-spicy-salty-sweet elements in a contrast of textures that makes it a pleasure to eat. Check out those made on “Dutch Crunch,” a pillowy pretzel bun topped with a yeasted rice flour mixture that bakes into a toothsome crust. (It’s a bread style that became popular in San Francisco.) If you love a roast beef sandwich, the Lango is not to be missed. A mound of rare, thinly sliced meat is complemented by tangy slaw, American and Swiss cheeses, ice box pickles, with banana pepper mayo slathered on the Dutch Crunch roll. New to the menu is the Lorraine Brocco—a vegetarian offering with roasted broccoli, arugula, tomatoes, and hand-pulled mozzarella, sparked with pesto. His Muffuletta on a jumbo sesame pretzel bun is likely the best in the city, layering smoked bologna, capicola ham, Genoa salami, provolone, Swiss, and his own piquant giardiniera.
Don’t want a sandwich? No problem! You’ve got choices of several lush salads listed on the blackboard. And yes, they come with pretzel croutons scattered over them. Indeed, the chef has been quite clever in utilizing his pretzel dough throughout the menu—down to the assortment of Pretzel Crunch cookies, which you will want to order as a takeaway treat.
Having permanent digs is a game-changer on many levels. Increased access: customers have a place to come Tuesday through Saturday to satisfy their pretzel cravings. More variety: Levon has the space to experiment, try out new ideas, and broaden the menu. Quality of life: For a chef who has run demanding, high-end kitchens (Proof on Main in Louisville, Cochon Butcher, and Gray & Dudley in Nashville) and served as culinary director over Strategic Hospitality’s empire, it is gratifying to have a family business withmoremanageablehours.Tobesure,ithasbeenablessingbornin adversity.
“I can’t tell you how grateful I am to be here doing this work that I love,” he says, beaming at his wife. “And I get to do it with this wonderful person every day.”
(921 Gallatin Ave., Ste. 101; fatbellypretzel.com)