CHRISTEN CLEMINS
Sweeza Super Quesadilla
Michael David Rose Photography
Michael David Rose Photography
Michael David Rose Photography
Since its 2022 debut, East Nashville’s The Wash has provided a creative, affordable alternative for chefs to bring their concepts to the marketplace.
Six bays of the former Gallatin Ave. car wash have been repurposed into micro-restaurants, offering an array of foods and beverages that are global in scope and local in base. Recently, two new restaurants joined the lineup: SS Gai and Sweeza Super Quesadilla.
Chris and Emma Biard drew their inspiration for SS Gai (which means same-same but different chicken) from their dining adventures while on honeymoon in Thailand. They prepare the bird two ways: Gai Tod (fried) and Gai Yang (grilled). In one bite of Gai Tod, you taste cumin and coriander in the toothsome rice flour crust and coconut milk marinated into the meat. (Not to mention the shower of crispy shallots!) A splash of their housemade chili-tamarind sauce brightens the succulent smoky flavors of the Gai Yang. Indeed, both versions are different and utterly delicious.
Gracie Nguyen and Chad Newton are the forces behind Sweeza. Here they recreate a specialty street food they relished when they lived in San Francisco: hefty Mission-style quesadillas hot off the griddle, folded with melty chihuahua cheese, avocado, salsa, chilis, crema, and choice of meat. This is soul-satisfying fare, and if you get the scrumptious, over-the-top Don Juan Especial packed with fries and double the steak, it could send you into a food coma as well.
Both concepts, welcome additions to Nashville’s culinary scene, are thrilling in themselves, but what’s behind them is an even more exciting story. Both fall under the umbrella of You Are Here Hospitality (YAHH), the brainchild of chefs and life partners Nguyen and Newton. Their innovative incubator program assists chefs in creating and launching their concepts with comprehensive follow-through so that they can successfully own and operate their restaurant. YAHH takes no equity position. Aspects include product testing, business administration, branding, public relations, and marketing. For anyone concerned about the future of local independent eateries, their vision and work brims with promise.
“Between the two of us, we have decades of experience. It sounds cliché, but we are doing this because it is fun,” says Chad Newton. “Gracie and I are passionate about food and the business. We like a very singular focus in a concept, where you do one thing, and do it very well. We can tailor a program for anyone looking to start their own restaurant.”
The couple boldly opened East Side Banh Mi in the middle of the pandemic, and it quickly became a community favorite. When they learned about The Wash, they were first to sign a lease. Next, they had an idea for a sibling restaurant serving Vietnamese snacks, bowls, and noodle soups and East Side Pho (fondly referred to as ESP) found a home. It also gave them the impetus to start YAHH.
“We have been fortunate to have had great mentors, so we want to carry that knowledge forward,” says Nguyen. “We have also learned some of the pitfalls the hard way and can help a person avoid them. The goal is that you own your business 100 percent.”
The Biards have become YAHH’s first success story. They met in Savannah, Georgia, both working at HUSK, fell in love, got married and traveled to Thailand, where they had their chicken a-ha! moment.
“We were on the quiet side of Ko Pha Ngan Island and followed our noses to where this woman was grilling Gai Yang,” recalls Emma. “It was so delicious. So perfect. We wanted to understand all of the flavors. Later that same day, we went to Night Market and came across a solo street vendor who was selling this incredible fried chicken.”
“I’m originally from Oklahoma; Emma’s from Nashville,” says Chris. “We know fried chicken. We filled up our backpack with it.”
When they returned to the States, Chris got on a mission to recreate both kinds of chicken— no small feat in the tiny Seattle apartment they wound up in. He laughs at all the bad batches he made—but with each one came learning and fine tuning. Ultimately Seattle didn’t suit them, and they moved to Nashville. Emma missed her hometown, and they were both impressed by Music City’s growing food scene. In time, Chris started cooking at East Side Banh Mi. After three months, he became Nguyen’s executive chef, as she prepared to open ESP. Emma joined the team as front of the house. The couples’ relationship grew organically. When the Biards shared their Thai chicken concept, Newton and Nguyen fully supported and guided them, from pop-ups to opening at The Wash.
“Chris and I have backgrounds in fine dining, but not fine casual,” says Emma. “When it came to doing even our first pop-up, we were clueless. We are so grateful for Chad and Gracie’s support, which has come in many ways.”
“Chris and Emma had a tight, unique concept,” Newton says. “We’re happy to help them bring out into the world.”
Meanwhile, Newton and Nguyen continue to hone their restaurants. Their latest passion project, Sweeza, has been well received (word: their pineapple-celery agua fresca could easily become your favorite refreshment) and they want to scale it.
“We are always looking for the next chef/ partners,” says Newton. “And we have other concepts in our pocket. I’ve long had the idea that East Nashville needs a really good but casual steakhouse. It’s going to take finding the perfect location.”
“It’s all about being homegrown,” says Nguyen. “Create, own, operate.” Emma and Chris agree. “Nashville needs these good concepts. It’s part of keeping the creative soul of the city.” (youareherehospitality.com)