Mayter Scott
Words like “consequential” and “far-reaching” don’t quite capture chef Deb Paquette’s influence on Nashville’s dining scene.
In a career spanning 42 years, she’s spent 30 of them heading restaurant kitchens. The first woman in Tennessee to become a certified executive chef, she’s mentored countless chefs and consulted for many fine dining establishments. At her restaurant Zola (deemed by Gourmet Magazine as one of America’s best; it had a brilliant run from 1997 to 2010) she introduced Nashvillians to her adventurous, globally inspired cuisine. After a two-year hiatus, Paquette returned to Nashville to open acclaimed restaurants Etch in 2012, followed by etc. in 2016.
Passionate and driven, she’s still at it. In April, when the pandemic forced the shuttering of Saltine, a coastal seafood restaurant on West End, owners 4Top Hospitality asked her to create its replacement—a challenge she readily accepted. The new concept is Jasper’s, a casual eatery and market. The watchword is “approachable.” The flavor profiles are pure Paquette.
“This is a different experience than Etch or etc.,” she says. “It’s playful. We want you to have fun.”
Jasper’s is named after Paquette’s beloved Jack Russell terrier; the illustration of the dog and a balloon on the menu cover expresses that light-hearted spirit.
Mayter Scott
“We have televisions, but we’re not a sports bar,” Paquette continues. “Of course, you can come to watch a game, but this is also a place for families or date night.”
The restaurant is large—13,000 square feet. In terms of COVID-19 protocols for safe-distance seating, this is ideal for customer comfort. In making the transformation, the 4Top team added space dividers to the central bar area, and extended booth heights to provide even more separation. There is a gaming area that will open once it is safe to do so.
The menu covers a wide gamut, offering Shareables, Flats, Greens & Things, Hand Helds, The Main Event, Sides, and Treats. In creating it, Paquette stepped things down in keeping with Jasper’s approachability while remaining true to her culinary voice. In part, she’s drawn on her wealth of treasured dishes over the years.
What to order:
- Caulipoppers, $10
- Neatchos, $13
- Tortilla Cat, $22
- Red Headed Salmon, $26
Tortilla Cat, a corn chip encrusted catfish fillet topped with black bean chili, salsas, and red cabbage slaw is from the bygone Tin Angel. She deftly modified the Etch signature roasted cauliflower dish to a tempura version. She brought back a favorite vegetarian entree from the early days of etc.: a filo pocket stuffed with quinoa, sunflower seed hummus, and mushrooms, served on a swathe of charred carrot sauce.
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You’ll find many of pub grub’s usual suspects: wings, nachos, dogs, and fries. Here they are done in Paquette’s creative, boldly spiced way. Wings are mopped in a fiery mango chili sauce, tempered with coconut yogurt. Sweet potato waffle fries are strewn with ancho cherry pulled pork and pickled onions—messy but oh-so-good. Little wieners transform into masa-dipped corndogs, smothered in mole sauce. Nachos become Neatchos: thin chips ladled with tender lamb barbacoa, queso fresco, salsa verde, and pickled raisins.
Salads are sophisticated. Paquette makes magic with beets, and she layers a salad of the sweet root vegetable with coconut custard, mango drizzle, and ginger vinaigrette over mixed greens. Almonds and crispy shallots provide savory crunch. Her Meatball Gondola juxtaposes warm and cool: beef-pork meatballs spooned into romaine leaf “boats” The salad is finished with more than Italian vinaigrette: Paquette magnifies it, adding smoked white bean sauce, basil, red onions, lemon zest Parmesan, and croutons.
Mayter Scott
There are several substantial mains that, while affordable, have all been elevated with Paquette hallmarks, like inventive sauces in cunning combinations. The cleverly named Steak and Egg is grilled hangar steak topped with a pipe of crazy-delicious deviled egg butter, along with swipes and dots of J-1 sauce (the Jasper’s version of A-1), and roasted red bell pepper essence. A mélange of Thai-inspired elements (red curry sauce, ginger rice noodles, and smoked peanuts) enliven the Red Headed Salmon.
Chef de Cuisine Katy Juban is executing Paquette’s vision with finesse. (It’s worth noting that Paquette has women heading the kitchens of all three restaurants. As she says, “girls rock.”) Her longtime pastry chef Megan Williams has created an array of ice creams, cakes, and cookies for both the restaurant and the market.
The market is a welcome addition, geared for locals and tourists alike. It’s got a section of grab-n-go sandwiches and salads, and fabulous desserts, including whole cakes and quarts of the house ice creams to carry home.
Mayter Scott
Williams’ double chocolate cake is a beauty: dark, moist, and rich as you would expect. Displays throughout the shop highlight local and regional goods, such as Olive & Sinclair chocolate, Soberdough mixes, pastas and olive oil from sister restaurant Amerigo, and body products from Thistle Farms. You’ll be able to get custom-made gift baskets too.
Overall, Jasper’s gives us another venue to enjoy Paquette’s distinctively delicious fare.
1918 West End Ave., 615-327-4410; jaspers.restaurant