Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s culinary empire spans five continents with concepts on both our East and West Coasts, and in cities as far-flung as São Paulo, Marrakesh, Paris, Jakarta, Shanghai, and Tokyo.
A little over a year ago, the internationally acclaimed chef added Nashville to his family of restaurants, opening Drusie & Darr and The Pink Hermit in the historic Hermitage Hotel. He recently returned to celebrate the one-year anniversary with a series of special dinners to highlight the new Spring menu. As an outsider making an impact, he talks about his vision for the restaurants and his attraction to our city.
Nashville Lifestyles: What first brought you to Nashville?
Jean-Georges Vongerichten: I had been working with Robert and Molly Hardie on a restaurant [Marigold] at Keswick Hall in Virginia when they mentioned their other property, this historic landmark in Nashville called The Hermitage Hotel. They wanted to update it, bring it new life, while retaining its character. I became curious and I said, “Okay, let’s go!” I had never been!
NL: What aspects of Nashville appeal to you, and what enticed you to take on this project?
JGV: I love what is happening here. Nashville is an easy place to come to—so friendly. People greet you with open arms. That openness is refreshing! And people are passionate about their art. It is a young city that is growing, with a balance of international and local. I felt I could bring something different— introduce my style of cooking, its different combi- nations of ingredients and tastes. I was impressed, too, by the access to the local produce. As a city grows, you need a diversity of restau- rants and cuisines. It is a part of change. I look at New York, where there is still so much growth and yet, the soul is still there. For Nashville, which is a very charming city, that is true too.
NL: How would you characterize your cooking style?
JGV: I get inspiration from everywhere I go. I like cooking with the seasons. I like placing different textures and temperatures side by side. I like how citrus and heat can magnify flavor. It really comes down to this: People only want delicious.
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NL: Tell us about some of the new items on the menu at Drusie & Darr.
JGV: Spring—I love this time of year. It is the be- ginning of everything! We have beet-cured salmon with cucumber yogurt placed on what I call “rosti,” but here, it is a hash brown. We are serving our black sea bass with caramelized carrots and turmeric lemon emulsion. We have fava beans and potato gnocchi to accompany the peppercorn-crusted beef. We have also been working on a new pizza, which has 4 cheeses and a lot of lemon zest.
NL: Have you been able to dine at other restaurants on this visit?
JGV: Yes, my team and I enjoyed Rolf & Daughters the first night. We had a late dinner at Black Rabbit last night. There was live music and dancing going on and it was a fun experience. Sean Brock invited us to Audrey for temaki. He is getting a special fish flown in from Japan that he wants to share. I am also looking forward to seeing his lab.
NL: What are your goals for your concepts in the Hermitage Hotel?
JGV: A restaurant is never done. We have a strong team. Chef Kelsi [Armijo] is preparing everything with finesse. Our pastry chef Stacy Day is making beautiful desserts. We’d like to expand The Pink Hermit. The café closes in the late afternoon and is available for private events. But with all the people living and working downtown, I can see it becoming a corner hang-out, open late, serving classic cocktails, wines, and small plates at a lower price. Life is about exploring, giving back, teaching. During one visit, someone made me a fried green tomato. I had never had it before, and it was delicious. I will have to use it, some way, in one of my dishes. That is the best part of my travels: this kind of sharing.