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Kalie Conner
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EMILY DORIO
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Three years have passed since the pandemic changed the hospitality industry, with chefs and restaurateurs adapting to lockdowns, cutbacks, supply chain disruptions, and labor shortages.
Amidst it all, Nashville never stopped building. Commercial real estate prices soared. Tourism returned with a fury. We’ve all experienced a seesaw of emotions: feeling jazzed for shiny-new openings and saddened by closures of beloved mainstays. It all begs the question, where are we, as a culinary city, headed? For this year’s restaurant issue, we’re diving into all that and more. What are the culinary trends to come (and go) next? Without question, 2022 was the year of the chef-driven hotel restaurants: Drusie & Darr at the Hermitage Hotel; Mimo at the Four Seasons; Carne Mare at the W Hotel; 1 Kitchen at 1 Hotel; and Blue Aster at the Conrad.
What will 2023 be known for? With new concepts, new restaurants, and the return of beloved favorites, we’re optimistic about what’s on the horizon.
EXPANDING THE VISION: CHANGE, GROWTH, AND NEW LOCATIONS
It’s not just the big names from New York, Chicago, Detroit, and London, moving into the Nashville market. There’s a lot happening with our locals—be it a chef or restaurateur offering more services in their present space, bringing their brand to another part of town, or opening something entirely different, from concept to location. These are big commitments that brim with hope and confidence.
One ambitious project is the repurposing of the former Piggly Wiggly at 917 Dickerson Pike, which boasts a stellar line-up of locally established talent. Phil Krajeck (Rolf & Daughters, Folk) Bryan Lee Weaver (Butcher & Bee, Redheaded Stranger), and Alexis Soler (Old Glory) will be launching new restaurants and a bar respectively. Across the river, the Aussie all-day cafe in east Nashville, Hearts, is poised to open its second location in 12 South. Otaku Ramen is moving its “Noodle Command Center” to Highland Yards on Douglas Ave., with plans for a ramen shop in the The Factory at Franklin later this year. Also to our south, perennial favorite Biscuit Love will open a spot in Franklin’s Berry Farms Town Center.
Julia Jaksic and her business partner Eric Lincoln became enchanted by the possibilities of the historic downtown Arcade renovation. They could envision a hidden gem of a bar, a cool refuge for locals now that downtown has emerged as a neighborhood. With business on even keel at both Café Roze and Roze Pony, Jaksic and Lincoln were ready to bring in a new member to the Roze family. Later this year, they will introduce Roza, a high-end cocktail bar, with Lincoln guiding the beverage program. Jaksic is designing the food menu and collaborating with architect Nick Dryden on the bar design.
“It has felt like we’re coming out of the war zone,” says Jaksic. “What feels good is that we’ve been through the tests. It’s gotten us ready for this next phase.”
Originally, John Stephenson never planned to serve lunch at Hathorne. As his restaurant has emerged from hard times, he wanted to further establish it as a neighborhood gathering place. But up and down the Charlotte corridor around Hathorne, a hospitable, seated business lunch didn’t really exist. Time to change that.
“Most people don’t know how challenging it’s been. But 2023 has gotten off to a solid start for us,” says Stephenson. “Our regulars are returning with more regularity. It’s felt right to expand our service options.” Diners can expect the same seasonal, vegetable-forward fare that defines Hathorne, along with locally sourced meats from Bear Creek Farms. Stephenson is excited to offer their signature smashburger, and a favorite from The Family Wash days, catfish with comeback sauce. Saturdays will include a collaboration with the farmers and producers across the street at Richland Park Farmers Market, creating a luncheon special to highlight the bounty of the moment.
Another favorite throwing their hat into the lunch ring is Fat Bottom Brewery. Nestled in The Nations, the brewhouse- taproom-event hall-play space has grown up within a residential neighborhood, making its name as a family-friendly, community- driven spot. You can never go wrong with a mug of Daisy White IPA and a plate of warm pretzels. Chef Jeanne Strout has designed a delicious, approachable menu of burgers, chilis, sandwiches, salads, and wraps to compliment the roster of house brews—which include Bravazzi blood orange hard Italian soda and the N.A. Hop Water. Whether paired as a dip with pretzels, or a sauce for pasta shells, Strout’s beer cheese is the bomb.