We’ve been astonished by our city’s nonstop growth and spate of newcomers to our dining scene. Moreover, we’ve been blown away by the irrepressible spirit of our long-standing chefs and restaurateurs who have dug in, gotten creative, and adapted so they can continue to serve delicious food and drink to us hungry diners. For this year’s Restaurant Issue, there are no bests. For anyone still in the business and doing the work, that’s a best, in and of itself. Salud!
We’ve looked back over the past year or two and assembled some favorites, including fresh pasta.
YOLAN
Bucatini all’Amatriciana
Nashville is oh-so lucky to have Tony and Cathy Mantuano, the uber-talented duo who guide the Italian cuisine and wine program at Yolan. While many of the restaurant’s dishes exhibit the award-winning chef’s creativity, Tony follows an especially disciplined path when preparing classics. His Bucatini all’Amatriciana is flawless; the thin, hollow tubes of pasta provide that right bite for a powerhouse combination of tomatoes, Pecorino-Romano, and basil. (403 4th Ave. S., 615-231-0405; yolannashville.com)
ROLF AND DAUGHTERS
Rigatoni, Heritage Pork Ragu, Tomato, SarVecchio
When Phil Krajeck opened RaD within the industrial bones of a Germantown boiler room, diners quickly flocked for its urbane vibe and rustic-refined fare. Cravings for Krajeck’s matchless pastas led the way. Whether served with garganelli verde or rigatoni, folks always give his heritage pork ragu a shout-out. And with good reason: It is absolutely delicious and, fortunately for us, a menu mainstay. (700 Taylor St., 615-866-9897; rolfanddaughters.com)
CULACCINO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT + BAR
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe
Inside Chef Frank Pullara’s open kitchen you can see his imported extruder and bronze dies used to make his artisanal pastas—a visual cue of what’s to come. His Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe, a brilliant and deceptively simple dish, is a perennial favorite. The distinctive squared strands folded with pecorino and a shower of black pepper rivals any you’d have in Rome. (104 E. Main St., 615-435-3539; culaccinotn.com)
NICKY’S COAL FIRED
Spicy Gulf Shrimp Spaghetti
Without question, Chef Tony Galzin has a deft hand at pizza making, but don’t sleep on his scratch-made pastas. One twirl of your fork through the strands of his spaghetti laden with plump Gulf shrimp cooked in Aleppo chiles, garlic, white wine, and tomato, finished with a scatter of lemony breadcrumbs, will convince you. Divine. (5026 Centennial Blvd., 615-678-4289; nickysnashville.com)
