Chattanooga
Getty Images
Chattanooga is changing. The “scenic city” so beloved for its walkable downtown and family-friendly activities— from the Tennessee Aquarium to the kitsch-infused Lookout Mountain and Chattanooga Choo Choo— can also add boutique hotels, chef-driven restaurants, craft cocktail bars, a dynamic art scene, and a pretty spectacular supper club to its long list of attractions. And fall marks the perfect time to take in East Tennessee’s autumn-hued landscape, while exploring newer developments folding gracefully in with the old, across this continually evolving city.
The recently opened Edwin Hotel, perched high atop the Bluff View Art District, beckons visitors to spend more time in this creative corner of town. With luxe rooms and an enviable location just steps from the Walnut Street Pedestrian Bridge, it’s a short stroll away from the “hip and historical” NorthShore neighborhood, too. Stop by the bright and airy Provisions at The Edwin for your morning latte and muffin, or walk the block to Rembrandt’s Coffee House and peruse the glass-enclosed cases layered with drool worthy breakfast treats; their cozy patio has welcomed locals and visitors alike since 1994.
Just down the street from both stops is Hunter Museum of American Art, where a diverse collection of paintings, drawings, prints, photography, sculpture, video, and new media from the 1700s to the present are on exhibit in three separate buildings that span 100 years of architecture between them: A Neoclassical-style mansion; a 1970s Brutalist inspired East Wing; and the 21st Century West Wing, which was completed in 2005, adding 28,000 square feet of space.
Across the river, NorthShore is abuzz with an eclectic collection of locally owned shops and restaurants, all surrounded by acres of walking trails, parks, and wetlands. Explore the funky boutiques and galleries, then grab some New York style deli sandwiches from lunchtime staple River Street Deli and make your way to Coolidge Park. There you can sit back and enjoy the river views, take a spin on the antique carousel, or test your climbing skills on the rock wall.
Back at The Edwin, tuck into Whiskey Thief, the city’s first true rooftop bar, and relax with a happy hour cocktail in hand, surrounded by sweeping views of the Tennessee River. Stick around and make a night of it with small plates like steamed pork belly buns, and pomme frittes with truffle, parmesean, and malt aioli, or make your way downtown and grab a seat at Easy Bistro’s bar to experience James Beard-nominated chef Erik Niel’s exquisite fare. Erik and his wife, Amanda, are also co-owners of Main Street Meats, a neighborhood butcher shop celebrated for its meat-stacked sandwiches and phenomenal steaks from Niman Ranch and Bear Creek Farm, and founders of The Scenic City Supper Club, a quarterly guest chef series that highlights Chattanooga’s emerging restaurant scene—the Supper Club alone warrants the drive if you’re lucky enough to snag tickets.
Lisa Diederich
Bode Chattanooga
Another new hotel, Bode Chattanooga, places guests close enough to downtown, but also right in the heart of the city’s new West Village development. The ultra-modern one- to three- bedroom, apartment-like units boast all the comforts of home, plus a communal hub complete with ping-pong tables, shuffleboard, a provisions shop, and bar. For travelers who prefer a more all-inclusive approach to travel, West Village has everything you need within a few, tidy, sidewalk-lined blocks. But the development isn’t terribly far from Chattanooga’s revitalized Southside neighborhood either—for those who want to branch out and explore all the good things happening in the less touristy enclave.You’ll get a just reward for the 30-minute morning walk to Niedlov’s Breadworks, where the shelves are piled high with freshly baked breads, hand-shaped bagels, and a glorious selection of both European style pastries and classic American favorites like blueberry muffins and sticky buns.
Next up, explore Southside’s sprawling 33-acre Sculpture Fields, dotted with larger-than-life sculptures from around the world. Open from dawn to dusk, it’s an inspirational green space where you’re likely to spot artists demonstrating their craft, or installing new works, while local musicians provide the fuel for dancing and yoga. For lunch, Kenny’s Southside Sandwiches serves up more than just sandwiches. Whether you’re in the mood for a classic Croque Madame or Muffaletta, or a hearty plate of fried chicken and sides, they’ve got you covered. Or branch out and sample outstanding papusas, ceviche and other Latin American favorites in an unassuming setting at Conga Latin Food; you won’t be disappointed.
Once the clock strikes 4, Southside Social is the place to be for a fun-filled evening of bowling and indoor games, including pool, skee ball, ping pong, and shuffleboard. There’s even an outdoor courtyard where guests can sip drinks around the fire pits and pick up a game of horseshoes, or cornhole. After dinner back in the West Village—Paloma is a nice stop for Spanish wine and tapas—be sure to carve out to time for one final round of drinks in the swoon-worthy Matilda Midnight, located inside the ultra-glammy Dwell Hotel. It somehow manages to feel worlds away and right at home in this ever-changing Tennessee town.
Getting there: It takes just a little over two hours to drive from Nashville to Chattanooga, but don’t forget it’s EST so you loose an hour on the way.
Birmingham
Supplied
The Farmstand
Birmingham has long had the moniker, The Magic City, and for reasons that go beyond the mushroom-like growth that took place in a time when coal and steel reigned supreme. Almost no other Southern city has enjoyed quite such a renaissance of late as this Alabama city which is home to more than 200,000 people. With more than a touch of irony, it has been said that Birmingham is a great place to live but you wouldn’t want to visit there. Yes, it is an amazing place to put down roots and raise a family but with the addition of arts, entertainment, and more than a few award-winning restaurants, that rumor has been put to rest and a visit to Birmingham is magical all in itself.
Book a room at the Grand Bohemian Hotel, where the decor is best described as ‘botanic chic’ and is a riot of eggplant purple and florals, with a consistent dose of original art on every wall of the hotel—every bit of it for sale. And if you don’t see what you want on the way to your room or brunch at the hotel’s HABITAT Feed & Social, stop in the gallery adjacent to the lobby where a curated collection routinely changes to showcase a wide-range of artists.
Just across the street from the hotel is The Birmingham Botanical Gardens and fall is just one of the ideal times to get lost in the sixty-plus acres of green space featuring more than two dozen different types of gardens. The Grand Bohemian Hotel anchors Mountain Brook Village, one of three quaint districts in the Birmingham suburb. Like English Village and Crestline Village, Mountain Brook is eminently pedestrian-friendly. Retail destinations here include Etc., the owners of which source fashions from farther afield, meaning you’ll always be one step ahead on the sartorial curve. Table Matters is a favorite spot for brides registering for new home staples, as well as anyone looking to update their table settings or stock up on hostess gifts. Owner Patricia Murray has a reputation for stocking “just the thing” that you never knew you needed. Pop into the Cook Store and pick up a few Tena Payne pottery pieces (the only plates used at James Beard Award-winning Hot & Hot Fish Club) handcrafted in nearby Leeds, AL.
Mary Fehr
Ollie Irene
If you’re beginning to feel a bit peckish, stop into Gilchrist’s in the center of the village, for an old-school limeade and an easy pimiento cheese BLT. This former soda shop retains all the charm of a time gone by and will leave you feeling more than a bit nostalgic. If it’s dinner time and you’re looking for something a bit more elegant, venture into neighboring Crestline Village for an unforgettable meal at Ollie Irene. This is the second iteration of Anna and Chris Newsome’s beloved restaurant after the first was forced to close in a retail expansion. But this second verse is even better than the first, and the guests never stop rolling in for bowls of mussels, fennel salad, Korean BBQ, or whatever else Chris concocts. Just make sure to save room for the sticky toffee pudding for dessert. Seriously.
Downtown, experience the best views of the city at the John Hand Hotel. These suites are fabulously appointed by local designer Jan Ware, and are as elegant as they are comfortable. Take the elevator to the top floor and enjoy a cocktail on the club level and take in the full 360 degree view of the Magic City—from Sloss Furnace (an historic site with tons of annual events and activities) to Vulcan, the Roman god of the forge, who looms large over the city with his hammer and anvil. (Go to the top of this statue to take in a totally different view of Birmingham.) From the John Hand Hotel, you are within walking distance of some of the city’s best cultural outlets: the Birmingham Museum of Art; the Birmingham Civil Rights Institute; or The McWane Science Center. Artists of all genres pack people in at the newly restored Lyric Theatre or the Alabama Theatre. Both sites play host to the annual Sidewalk Film Festival. Sidewalk now has a permanent home in the bottom floor of the chic Pizitz building downtown, where two screening rooms will show films both old and new. If you get hungry before or after the show, the Pizitz Food Hall with more than a dozen different cuisines is an easy stop for all the cravings in your party.
For dinner or brunch, make your way to The Essential on Morris Avenue, just around the corner from the John Hand Hotel. Owners Kristen Farmer Hall and Vincent King have developed a cult following, and with dishes like lamb shoulder confit, bucatini with Gulf crab, and half chicken piri piri, it’s no wonder why. Craving Cuban food? Andrew Collins’ new Cayo Coco is a go-to for ropa viejo and ceviche.
Supplied
Big Spoon Creamery
Make your way to the Avondale neighborhood and check out MakeBHM, where owners Scottie and Bruce Lanier have created the coolest maker space around. Classes are available for visitors, so be sure to check out the offerings before you hit the road. For lunch or dinner, head to Post Office Pies or SAW’s Soul Kitchen. Big Spoon Creamery is another Avondale must-do. Don’t let the line out the door deter you, just queue up to try seasonal ice cream flavors like Goat Cheese Fig, Lime Yuzu Pie, and Cold Brew Coffee. Ready to get your motor running? Schedule a time with the Porsche Track Experience at Barber Motorsports in Leeds. Not feeling the need for speed? The Barber Motorsports Park and Museum has something for everyone, and the vintage vehicles are worth checking out.
No visit to Birmingham is complete without ample time at Pepper Place in the Lakeview section of town. On Saturday mornings, the parking lot and side streets are full of produce vendors and local artisans; folks with strollers and dogs stop between booths to greet familiar faces and there is always a food demo and live music. Mid-week finds Pepper Place just as attractive with retail outlets like The Farmstand by Stone Hollow Farm, Design Supply, and Richard Tubb Interiors. Idie & Chris Hastings’s famous Hot & Hot Fish Club re-opens here this fall and is already buzz-worthy. Their live fire restaurant, OvenBird, just around the corner, is equally amazing.
Getting there: Make the drive in just under three hours by taking I-65 South.
Memphis
1 of 3
Janet Glaser
2 of 3
Janet Glaser
3 of 3
Janet Glaser
In many ways Memphis is a twin soul to Nashville, overflowing with art and culture, history, a burgeoning culinary scene, and—of course—music.
For an experience like none other, book a room at the Big Cypress Lodge. Situated between the hustle of downtown Memphis and the splendor of the Mississippi River, the hotel stands 300 feet high. This gleaming glass pyramid was built in 1991 when it was the sports arena for the University of Memphis men's basketball program and the NBA's Memphis Grizzlies, but in 2015 Johnny Morris, founder of Bass Pro Shops, opened the 103-room hotel. And unlike most hotels, the best views here are from the interior rooms, the screened balconies of which overlook the 535,000 square-foot Bass Pro Shops store on the ground floor.
It’s hard to understand until you’ve seen it, but imagine an indoor forest, complete with ponds (and aquariums) featuring 600,000 gallons of water, along with 36 varietals of fish, several waterfowl types, and even alligators. Nestled into corners of this water-filled wonderland are departments of the Bass Pro Shop store. On the second level, you’ll find 25-yard live fire pistol and archery ranges. Cross the bridge on the lower level and enter Uncle Buck’s Fish Bowl and Grill for breakfast, lunch or drinks. Here, tropical fish swim in an enormous tank and a bowling alley takes on an underwater feel, complete with floating trophy fish and shark-shaped ball returns. Hop aboard the Sky High Ride—the tallest free-standing elevator in the U.S. The 28-story glass elevator takes you through the pyramid and up into The Lookout restaurant, where you can enjoy signature dishes like the Wild Game Sausage Charcuterie plate and the White River Catfish plate before stepping out onto the (see-through) outdoor platform 300 feet above Memphis, with spectacular 360-degree views of the city. (Tickets to ride the elevator are $10 per adult, but after 5 p.m. that $10 becomes a credit toward your meal.)
And while the amenities at Big Cypress are jaw-dropping, it’s the rooms that steal the show. The guest rooms—with their high ceilings and rustic elegant décor—feature electric fireplaces, soaking tubs and enormous rain showers, and more. With their lodge-style feel, sumptuous beds, and to-die-for bathrooms, they give guests a “glamping” vibe. If you’re lucky enough to book one of the hotel’s two Duck Cabins (designed to look like vintage waterfowl hunting cabins) or Fly Fishing Lodges, you’ll have an equally elegant experience, but with more room, including spiral staircases leading to lofted (additional) bedrooms in the latter.
The four Treehouse rooms are nestled among hundred-foot cypress trees, and can accommodate up to eight guests, while the stately Governor’s Suite—a celebrity favorite—features vaulted ceilings, a full kitchen and private balcony overlooking the Cypress Swamp. The hotel also offers a free shuttle service downtown, so you can valet park your car (complementary!) and leave it onsite while you tour the city.
Supplied
The Bar-B-Q Shop
Dining in Memphis is a joy, with options ranging from barbecue to Cajun and everything in between. Memphis is, of course, famous for the former, so a trip to one of the local joints is a must. The Bar-B-Q Shop—home of the Dancing Pigs Bar-B-Q sauce and Dry Seasoning—has been an institution since 1987. The real-pit barbecue spot offers all the favorites (including its award-winning ribs) and a few specialty dishes, including the decadent, can’t-be-missed Bar-B-Q Spaghetti, which originated onsite.
For something more upscale, make reservations at Restaurant Iris, where Chef Kelly English has brought together an incredible team that consistently churns out elegant, signature dishes that fuse local Southern ingredients with French-Creole recipes, all in the coziest cottage you ever did see.
Next door, you’ll find sister restaurant Second Line, which offers up equally high-quality, yet more casual eats, like friend jambalaya and remoulade and an extensive menu of poboy sandwiches, including The Zimmern: roast beef, gravy, swiss, and fried gulf oysters. If you’re looking for an outdoorsy way to experience Memphis, head to Shelby Farms Park and rent a kayak or paddleboard. The peaceful oasis, just 20 minutes from downtown, is a perfect spot to fish, float or walk off your stress (and all that barbecue).
For a completely different cultural experience, visit the National Civil Rights Museum at the Lorraine Motel. The museum includes 260 artifacts, more than 40 new films, oral histories, interactive media, and external listening posts that guide visitors through five centuries of history, from the beginning of the resistance during slavery, through the Civil War and Reconstruction, the rise of Jim Crow, and the seminal events of the late 20th century that inspired people around the world to stand up for equality.
One of the most emotional experiences is the Lorraine Motel itself; the site of Martin Luther King’s final hours and assassination on April 4, 1968. Rooms 306 and 308 look just as they were that day, as does the building’s façade. The historic cars out front give the scene an even more somber feel—as if things were frozen in time from that tragic day forward.
Known as the Home of the Blues—and widely regarded as the birthplace of Rock ‘n Roll—a trip to Memphis isn’t complete without a deep dive into the music scene. Head to Beale Street for a night of live blues music and serious night life. Much like Broadway, live performances spill out onto the street, but duck in to Silky O’Sullivans or B.B. King’s Blues Club (those in the know make reservations upstairs at Itta Bena) for an authentic auditory experience.
Supplied
Graceland
Further from the musical main drag, no audiophile’s trip to Memphis is complete without a visit to Graceland. A quick drive from downtown, Elvis Presley’s famed estate sits on the unassuming yet aptly named Elvis Presley Boulevard—a beacon for fans of all ages. Surrounded by Elvis-centric attractions and shops, Graceland is an incredible look at the life of the King—from a tour of his stately home (including the famed Jungle Room) to a walk through his private planes, or a visit to the car museum where some of Elvis’s most enviable rides are on display. And of course, pay your respects in the Meditation Garden, where Elvis rests alongside his parents, Vernon and Gladys, and his grandmother, Minnie Mae. There is also a memorial for Elvis’ twin brother, Jesse, who died at birth. Before you leave, hit up the gift shops that surround the grounds to stock up on souvenirs—there’s plenty of options to celebrate the King and to remember your trip to Memphis.
Getting there: An easy three-hours-and-change-drive on I-40. (And it’s always worth a stop at IKEA just outside of Memphis, so bring plenty of trunk space.)