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While he prefers to remain a man behind-the-scenes, Howard Greenstone has made an indelible mark on Nashville’s dining landscape. It began in 2014, when he helped his friends, Ken Levitan and chef Jonathan Waxman, launch Adele’s and one thing—or project—led to another. His endeavors include Bajo Sexto Taco in the Country Music Hall of Fame; The 404 Kitchen moving to larger digs in the Gulch; and a partnership with Matt and Emily Hyland of Emmy Squared to grow their brand nationally and internationally. Greenstone also became strategic advisor and partner of the Marcus Samuelsson Group and co-founder of Red Pebbles Hospitality. From 2020 to 2022, despite the challenges presented by pandemic times, he opened 14 restaurants including these in Nashville: Shep’s Delicatessen, Sadie’s, Ella’s on 2nd, and The Nashville Sundae Club.
We chatted with Greenstone to hear how he got his start, how he built the outstanding career he has today, and why the hospitality industry has his heart.
Tell us about your entry into hospitality.
It started in high school. I grew up in north Jersey, played sports, and needed part-time work. I took a job at a local country club as a line cook by day and banquet waiter by night. It was fun. I kept at it through college. I joined a fraternity and became the Sunday cook! I loved it. I come from a family of attorneys and thought that was my destiny. Even while working in my dad’s law office, I cooked at a mom-n-pop Italian joint. Taking the law boards, I realized I just couldn’t do it—the desk life of an attorney was not for me. Sometime after, when I was in Pittsburgh working at a restaurant, it was clear that hospitality was my direction, and food and beverage was where I needed to continue my education.
I got hired as a food and beverage trainee at the Grand Hyatt in New York City. It was crazy-big and crazy-busy, 1,400 rooms, 600-seat restaurant, and I got moved around, learning all the varied operations, from the dish rooms, to the coffee shop, to fine dining.
That ramped up your education in the industry. What were some other pivotal moments on your path?
Really, each one was critical along the way. In 1987, I met Christer Larsson, a Swedish chef, who had come to head the kitchen of Aquavit. Would I like to be the general manager? I didn’t hesitate. I was 26 years old. It was a remarkable opportunity working for Hakan Swahn, which I did for a little over 2 years. It ultimately led to another important connection: Marcus Samuelsson. I left Aquavit to sign on with Sfuzzi, a casual Italian concept, and for more than five years helped them open 20 units. I wound up in Dallas as Director of Operations, which didn’t suit. I moved back to Jersey and took a job working for Arthur Imperatore running his restaurants, which I did for seven years. My last name wasn’t Imperatore, so I was never going to get an equity position. I left. In 2001, I joined the group behind Rosa Mexicano. They wanted to expand, and I knew how to do it. In over 13 years, we grew to 20 restaurants and 90 million dollars in sales. After we sold it to a private equity firm, I thought I would retire—“ish” and ride my motorcycle through the special beauty that is Marin County.
But, Nashville called.
Right. And I said, ‘Yes.’
And the decision to move from Marin to Music City?
Go big or go home!
What factors draw you to a project?
Different things, really. Some are location driven. After Marche closed, a truly iconic spot, I thought, “What isn’t here that needs to be? What would make sense?” And the notion of a New York Jewish deli took hold. Sadie’s in Edgehill Village came into being when I learned that the previous tenant hadn’t exercised their lease option. I have always loved Jack’s Wife Freda, an all-day cafe in Manhattan, and could envision a similar concept to serve that neighborhood. With Matt and Emily [of Emmy Squared], it was the chance to take their pizza concept big, to multi-unit. We recently opened in Jeddah and Abu Dhabi.
These concepts are all very different. Is there a common thread?
Core values: foremost, gracious hospitality. I want us to be real; to own it. I want it to be about the guests and the team, not me. I want to be the least known person. And the sales-revenue-profit model is key. I love what I do, but this is business. I enjoy the challenge of making all the puzzle pieces work.
Can you share some pandemic lessons?
Don’t panic! Forty years in the business has shown me that people perform better in a crisis. In a way, this “post-pandemic” environment is twice as hard. We are all experiencing labor shortages, increased rents, inflation, and a more vocal guest base. Our job is to do the best we can with what we have.
Looking ahead, what trends do you see?
The food and beverage industry is going to continue to evolve. We had moved from a manufacturing to a service society that now seems to be moving to tech. And that makes me concerned for the indies. It will be tougher on the small corner bistros. You know, our downtown is great, but I really believe more in neighborhood. Restaurant workers deserve higher wages. Guests are going to have to be willing to pay more for their meals. Otherwise, we are going to see more big box chains that can leverage purchasing power.
Any closing words?
My dad had this belief: You learn for 25 years, work for 25 years, and give back for 25 years. My 40 years of experience gives me hindsight. I am available at all times to assist anybody on our teams. I love teaching and giving back.