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The Roundabout Plaza is more vibrant these days since the opening of Cocorico French Bakery and Café.
Founder and CEO Elodie Habert has created an inviting spot that looks out at the iconic Musica sculpture and the parade of vehicles trying to figure out how to drive the circle around it. More than that, she’s introduced an authentic experience of French café culture: slowing down to enjoy good food and company at the table.
The first thing you’ll notice when you step inside is the wonderful buttery aromatics coming from the open kitchen. You’ll be drawn to the glass case displaying a variety of freshly made baguette sandwiches: cured ham and Brie; roast chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, and tapenade; and a vegetarian tucked with cucumber, red onion, arugula, and a lush goat cheese spread. Beckoning, too, are individual-sized quiches in classic Lorraine or feta-sparked Mediterranean vegetable, as well as beautifully composed salads with Dijon vinaigrette to either grab and go or sit and savor.
Adjacent is a long counter bearing specialty pastries with golden spins of plain, chocolate, and almond croissants. (The crackly almond has a dreamy frangipane filling!) There are delicate spongy cookies, Madeleines, flavored with vanilla and petite flourless chocolate cakes. Across the white hex-tiled counter front, cleverly spelled out in black hex-tiles, is the word BONJOUR! Yes, at Cocorico, it can’t help but be a good day.
Self-trained in the pastry arts, Habert is originally from southwest France, near the city of Toulouse. In 2016, when she and her husband were seeking a new life challenge, they decided to leave their homeland for jobs in Nashville. Opening a bakery/cafe was never part of the original plan. However, two years later, she and a friend (also French) were discussing the lack of certain foods they loved from home. That lament turned into a brainstorming session of things they could make and possibly sell.
To start, they gave free tastings to friends and family at the complex where they lived. After getting helpful feedback and encouragement, they set up a booth at the Nashville Farmers Market. They named the business Cocorico, the French word for the crowing a rooster makes. Marketgoers found plenty to crow about and became steady customers.
“It all started by accident,” Habert recalls. “We were at the market once a month, then that grew to two times, then more. In August 2019, my business partner moved to Canada. It left me with the decision: do I keep going with this, or shut it down? I really loved what we were doing and didn’t want to stop.”
Habert met with Laura Wilson at Citizen Kitchen and moved her baking operation there. It was hard doing everything by herself, but eventually, she grew the business enough to hire help. She increased her presence, setting up at four farmers’ markets every week. When the pandemic hit, she continued to thrive. It was a matter of right place, right time since she had already established herself with a strong customer base at outdoor venues that felt safe. In 2022, she began her search for a brick-and-mortar location. Eighteen months later, she came upon the storefront on the roundabout.
“I loved the big windows and the light,” Habert says. “It had been a commissary kitchen serving the people in the building. Long ago, Provence was there. Working with Manuel Zeitlin Architects, we got the place transformed in a three-month turnaround.”
Cocorico incorporates elements that remind Habert of home, in particular the exposed red brick walls. Bright colored posters of Toulouse adorn cream-painted walls, woven basket pendants suspend over natural wood tables and chairs, small vases of lavender line the dining counter at the window. She also made the decision to not offer Wi-Fi to her customers.
“Yes, we have coffee and espresso service, but we are not a coffee shop,” says Habert. “We are a French cafe, and we want you to have that experience. Take a break from looking at your laptop or phone.”
Habert is excited for the bounty of summer produce to influence her cooking. Look for tomato galettes, ratatouilles, peach tarts, and a compelling array of salads.
“We are offering authentic French cuisine using local products. I feel so connected to the farmers and the markets. It’s so important to support each other and keep the dollars in Tennessee.” These days, Habert continues to have booths at the Vanderbilt and Richland farmers markets.
“It’s an important part of our transition,” Habert says, “and a great way to let people know about the cafe.”
She also supports her fellow producers with a retail section of the shop devoted to selling their wares. You’ll find items like Jim’s Spaghetti Sauce, Catapano pastas, Delvin Farms Salsa, and Summit Sisters coffees. You can also select one of her large quiches, salads, and baguettes to take home for dinner. Habert not only loves Nashville, but she has also felt so supported by the community. “Americans are resilient people; bolder and more optimistic, I think, than French people,” she says. “I am finding a good balance, adopting that outlook while holding on to my roots.” (1600 Division St., Ste. 120, 615-314-0436; cocoricocuisine.com)