Editor's Note: Sinema will be closing its doors with their final service on August 31, 2024. This story was published prior to the closing announcement.
When Sinema opened in June 2014, diners reveled in the transformation of the Melrose Theater into a fine dining restaurant.
In repurposing, the magnificent 1940s art deco character of the bygone movie house was retained, with meticulous restoration of the marquee, ticket booth, lobby, and curved staircase to the mezzanine, now a dark, swanky lounge. Sinema became a destination, renowned for its New American cuisine and weekend “bottomless” brunches.
As the restaurant approached its 10-year anniversary, the owners — the Reed family and Q-Juan Taylor — felt it was time for change. One great challenge for a restaurant is remaining relevant over the long term. This is especially potent in Nashville, where our explosive growth is continually punctuated by new restaurant openings. Executive Chef Kyle Patterson, who had been with Sinema since its launch, was ready for other opportunities. Thus began the search for a new executive chef who would infuse fresh vitality to both front and back of the house.
That quest led them to Shelby Briggs, a seasoned chef and traveler who brings a broad range of experience to the table. We recently met up with her to learn about her background, challenges, and goals.
Nashville Lifestyles: Tell us about your culinary path. What sparked this journey? When did you know this would be your calling?
SB: I don’t have a heartwarming story about cooking alongside my grandmother, but I always had a strong pull to cooking. I enrolled at Indiana University of Pennsylvania as they had a fine culinary program, and initially signed up for the baking and pastry track. I quickly learned that it was wrong for me, and I switched to restaurant. I loved it, and knew it was where I belonged. The program also had a 6-month externship, and I went to the Ocean Reef Club in Key Largo, Florida. I was there for 10 years, moving from entry-level cook to chef de cuisine overseeing three different concepts. Then, wanting to be closer to home, I took a position at Woodmont Country Club in Rockville, Maryland. I came on board as an executive chef to renovate the kitchen and uplift the menu, replacing a chef who had been there for 29 years. After a while, I was ready for change and began putting out feelers. I had traveled to Nashville, as I have a sister who lives here. A recruiter reached out to me about Sinema. I wasn’t sure, as I was used to overseeing multiple concepts. But when I met with the Reed family and learned about their plans and the possibilities, everything clicked.
NL: Do you have someone who was especially influential; someone who mentored you?
SB: That would be Andi Van Willigan. She was the executive chef at Ocean Reef during a transformative time for me. Having worked under Gordon Ramsey and Michael Mina, she had incredible experience. She was a true leader. She remains an inspiration to me and an example of strong female leadership to model. We are friends to this day.
NL: Please talk about your philosophy/approach to cooking.
SB: I like to cook using seasonal ingredients, but in dishes that reflect my travels. Reducing kitchen waste is important to me, and that includes cross-use of ingredients. For instance, I would use mirepoix to make a stock, and rather than discard it after finishing the stock, I might repurpose it in a sauce or filling. Regarding leadership in the restaurant: I believe in treating the staff with great respect and giving them a creative outlet.
NL: Sinema is celebrating its 10-year anniversary. In taking over after a chef who had essentially been in charge that entire time, what challenges did you face? What changes have you made to Sinema’s menu?
SB: Because I had that experience at Woodmont (Country Club) under my belt, I knew not to assert my dominance. I observed. I worked the line. I let my staff see how I work. It’s about being present; leading by example. I knew that the transition would come naturally. I’ve completely changed the menu. For the first flip, I wanted to keep it approachable, giving the team the time to learn the new standards. As we progress, the menu flips will show new techniques and flavor profiles, with more influence from the team.
NL: Do you have a favorite kitchen tool?
SB: I should say my sous chef, Tony! I love my mini-offset spatula and plating spoons.
NL: What ingredient you would feel lost without?
SB: Zest! I use a lot, from all different citruses, in my cooking.
NL: Can you share a “secret” ingredient in your culinary arsenal?
SB: Miso paste, dashi, and kimchi paste are my staples.
NL: What do you recommend first-time diners to order? What are your must-haves?
SB: I enjoy our dining style of shared plates. So, for appetizers, I’d start with our Tuna Bombs. Also, the Pierogi, which is near and dear to my heart. My family — we’re all from Pittsburgh — would eat these all the time. I developed that recipe as an homage to my youth. I love to cook fresh pastas, so I’d recommend the Swiss Chard Agnolotti. For a main, the Honey Hoisin Short Rib. Also, the Fish Feature, which changes every evening. I often let my team get creative with that dish.
NL: What are your goals for yourself as a chef and for the restaurant?
SB: For myself, it is always about learning and growing in my craft. For Sinema, it’s about becoming relevant. I want us to be the top spot that a concierge service would recommend. We have a wonderful event space that I am excited to help develop. But we want to be a place you feel comfortable coming to, any day. It doesn’t have to be a special occasion. Our lounge, which has a cool feel, is the sort of spot where you can meet a friend after work for a cocktail, small bites, even a burger. And we want our weekend brunch to have something for everyone to enjoy. I’ve balanced that menu with lighter items, such as fruit salad, avocado toast, and yogurt parfait. I love doing wine and spirit dinners, emphasizing pairings, and will be working with our General Manager, Bret Nelson, who is also a Level 1 Sommelier. As I become more and more acquainted with Nashville, which still feels like a small town to me, I look forward to collaborating with other chefs.