1 of 2
LEINA HORII
2 of 2
LEINA HORII
As our city grows, our lives have become increasingly enriched by the diversity of cultures and their cuisines.
Indeed, Japanese food is having a moment: our experiences have broadened from the theatrical showmanship of hibachi grills of the ’80s as we’ve been introduced to art of the sushi bar, the ramen house, the izakaya (gastro-pub), and now, the kissaten.
Japanese kissatens are casual, often family-run cafes serving coffee, teas, an array of small bites, and simple meals. They are a bit retro in style and ambiance, providing an intimate, relaxing space for guests to hang out. It was the notion of this cozy, familial place, coupled with the comfort foods of her youth, that Chef Leina Horii tapped into when she and her husband, Chef Brian Lea created Kisser, which recently opened in Highland Yards. (The daughter of a sushi chef in Southern California, Horii spent every summer with her grandparents in Tokyo.)
Kisser originated, however, as a pandemic pop-up. Horii and Lea were both working at Bastion when they launched it at The Patterson House. They underestimated the response from diners, which propelled them to continue popping up in restaurants and at farmers markets. Within two years’ time, and in partnership with Strategic Hospitality, the couple turned Kisser into their bricks-and-mortar homage to the kissaten.
“We’ve always wanted to have a little restaurant together,” says Horii. “Something simple, where we get to cook the food we care about and love. Kisser came out of realizing that Japanese comfort food was what we really enjoyed making and eating together during shutdown.”
The eatery occupies a compact, efficiently designed space featuring an open kitchen, with seating at modern farm tables and a dining counter. Tones of whites and natural woods, along with garage-style roll-up door and window bring light and dimension to the room. A portion of a main wall is covered in beautiful ocean-blue ceramic tiles installed by Horii and Lea. Look closely and you’ll notice two broken ones, their breaks repaired in gold-dusted lacquer, a process called kintsugi, which celebrates the beauty of broken things. A shelf above the tiled section holds an assemblage of framed drawings and prints, plants, and artifacts. Across the room is a table with a turntable and LPs. The overall effect is contemporary yet homey, an extension of the chefs themselves.
After you take a seat, your server will bring you a bottle of chilled water, glasses, and a ceramic tumbler of flatware, chopsticks, and napkins. Have a look at the list of beverages: concise, in keeping with the economy of space, but intriguing. Included in the selection of beers is a special Kisser rice ale, brewed by Harding House, several saki offerings, of course, and a few wines by the glass that partner well with the fare. High Garden Teas are available, too. We recommend Creamsicle Oolong, which imparts wonderful notes of orange and butterscotch-vanilla in the blend.
The food menu, listed simply as small plates and bigger plates, follows suit, but is mindful in including vegetarian and gluten-free offerings. Another compelling note: Tokyo and Nashville are on the same latitude and share similar climate. This discovery has propelled the couple to grow their own herbs and vegetables for the restaurant.
“Being able to use the best, freshest Japanese ingredients really heightens the food that we make,” says Lea. Bottom line: You’ll want to try everything! Where to begin?
1 of 2
LEINA HORII
2 of 2
LEINA HORII
Share an order of Inari. The presentation itself is enticing: two filled pouches made from fried tofu skin arrive on a small pedestal.Tucked inside each is sushi rice, topped with shrimp salad dotted with cod roe. These can be eaten as handhelds and they hit all the taste notes: savory, sweet, salty, tangy, with the roe adding a pleasing crunch. Your eyes will widen at the gorgeous big salad of lettuces scattered with mixed seeds and bonito flakes. On the smaller side, you’ll relish the bowl of roasted kabocha squash and green beans in white miso and honey.
One of the fun aspects of the open kitchen is seeing works in progress, like Chef Lea shaking a bowl of crispy chicken wings to coat them in black garlic barbecue sauce. Irresistible! The wings are finished with chopped scallions and a dusting of tōgarashi spices. Smoky, sweet, savory, and a little sticky: grab an extra napkin while enjoying them.
The chicken katsu sando is based on a sandwich that Horii often made for herself after school. It became one of the most sought-after items at their pop-ups and therefore a must- have here. The brined and pounded chicken filet is coated in panko and fried to a toothsome crunch. Placed on toasted slices of Japanese milk bread (made in-house and savored for its light sweetness and crumb) the cutlet is embellished with cabbage slaw and umami-laden tonkatsu sauce.
All of the food is packed with so much flavor: layered, complex, and satisfying. But none as much as the noodle dishes. Horii and Lea handcraft the pasta in the Curry Udon, the strands served in a heady vegetable soup. If desired, you can embellish it with a chicken katsu cutlet or onsen tamago. Translated, that means “hot springs egg,” and denotes a special method of poaching to yield the most silken and custardy texture. It is pure and luscious and a worthy add-on. Tantan ramen is brothless, the bowl of bouncy noodles assembled with crumbles of the house smoked chicken sausage, chili crisp, sesame, scallions, cucumber batons, and that perfectly cooked egg. Stir them all together and dig in.
Kisser is reflection of the sensibilities and talents of the couple, who work seamlessly together. From pop-up to compact restaurant, it’s been a great journey for the couple. Both Horii and Lea have been humbled and gratified by their success, sharing the foods they love. (747 Douglas Ave.; kisserrestaurant.com)