Jon Howard, bar director for Audrey, June, and The Continental, likens the crafting of a cocktail to telling a story. When he conceives of a drink, it’s not just the combination of spirits and flavor enhancements that comes to mind. He envisions the big picture in full detail. Setting. History. Inspiration. Technique. Vessel. Flourishes. Presentation.
All of these elements merge to give his guests an enjoyable cocktail from first to last sip. For the past several months, challenged by creating four distinct bar programs for chef Sean Brock’s concepts, Howard has been immersed in the world of cocktails and stories. It’s been an odyssey for the Alabama native, who has been in hospitality since his teens. Jon Howard shares his story.
Tell us how you got started behind the bar.
I was attending Ole Miss, studying theater. My twin brother, Chad, was running a bar and needed help. So, I got on board. Really, it was all about pouring drinks fast. Nothing nuanced! But, it formed the basics of my career. After college, I left for New York.
You spent a number of years there working in some pivotal places for the time. Who were your mentors?
I had amazing mentorship. I worked at P.J. Clarke’s under Doug Quinn, who was admired for his ability to connect with customers, remember their drinks, and their stories. I got a big break while I was a waiter at BLT Steak. One day, someone called out sick and they needed a bartender. I said yes. Over time, I got into steady rotation, learning under Fred Dexheimer, a master sommelier and brilliant cocktail innovator. I was fortunate to travel and assist him in openings in Miami, Hong Kong and Los Angeles. I helped open The Dutch in 2010. And, I had the honor of working under Naren Young at Saxon+Parole, voted world’s best restaurant bar in 2013.
In 2015, you came to Nashville. What drew you here?
I was ready to return to the South, be closer to home. Charlotte, Tampa, and Nashville were on my list to check out. Of course, I’d been hearing great things about what was happening here. Then, I experienced it firsthand. Matt Tocco (at The Patterson House) made me a terrific drink. Same with Ben Clemons at No. 308. I was impressed with how far the culture had come; how much people cared. I believed that Nashville was ready and that I had something good to contribute. Initially, no one would hire me. I found the cool little cocktail bar in Marathon Village: William Collier’s and got my Nashville start.
You won Woodford Reserve’s Manhattan Experience, a nationwide competition for the best Manhattan and original cocktail, in 2016. That recognition became a real turning point in your career.
It was a great honor. I was working at Old Glory at the time, and so grateful for their support. And that led to Skull’s Rainbow Room, Henley, and then the supplier side of the business. I’ve learned how much I love restaurant bars. You are working with world- class chefs in world-class kitchens with the finest ingredients. In designing a restaurant bar program, you are always creating based off the food and the thematic ideas of the concept. I was thrilled to be contacted by chef Sean Brock to assist with his concepts.
Tell us about what you’ve done for The Continental.
This is Sean Brock’s homage to the elegant hotel restaurants of 1920s. To me, that speaks to the classics—martinis, Rob Roys, Sidecars. However, Brock’s is a nouveau approach to telling that story, and my bar program needed to reflect that. I researched bygone cocktail menus of the Waldorf Astoria, and also contemporary works, like Robert Simonson’s books.
And you developed The Vesper Club?
Yes, this is our curated martini-caviar tasting at The Continental. There are five different martinis, each paired with a specific caviar, all savored over the course of an hour. Our guests are surprised by the fact that not all martinis are clear! More of a rainbow: pink, ambers, reds. By the way, we have no Russian products—for example, the Imperial Osetra is a heritage Russian caviar, but farmed in Israel.
The Bar at Audrey is vastly different. Guests choose a defining ingredient—fruit or vegetable, rather than spirit.
This is not your typical bar. It’s a very intentional experience driven by ingredients and a minimalist approach. We are using all hand tools—nothing electric. Each day is different, and we never do the same drink twice. But each shares this in common: Produce/Spirit/The Lab. By “The Lab” I mean what we are creating, such as syrups, bitters. These are refreshing, bright yet soft and delicate drinks, without overly polarizing flavors. I don’t want to blow out the palate. I am so proud of the work we are doing.
Can you give us a hint as to what is in store for guests at June?
My part in this concept is very new to me—I’ll be in the kitchen, as the cocktails are threaded through the entire dining experience.
What has been your biggest surprise this year?
How quickly we’ve done it. Four bar programs in one year! We’ve had such great leadership and trust.
Any words for aspiring mixologists?
Know what the vision is and keep it cohesive. Not seeing the big picture can be a pratfall. Remember, you are making drinks for guests and not yourself. But, be yourself. Make sure your ingredients have a purpose. In the end, it comes down to hospitality. You want to create an environment encompassing to people. The goal is for them to come back. (The Continental and The Vesper Club; thecontinentalnashville.com, Audrey and The Bar at Audrey; audreynashville.com)