ANDREW CEBULKA
What would you say, upon hearing about a high-end, almost exclusively vegetarian restaurant configured in 70’s kitsch, set in a former Piggly Wiggly on a gentrifying stretch of Dickerson Pike?
Certainly, the words bold and daring would come to mind. Innovative? Forward-thinking? Those as well. Along with those descriptors, we would add flavor-packed and fun. Fancypants, conceived by the principles of Honest to Goodness Hospitality, embodies all of those words, and is unlike any other restaurant in the city.
Bryan Lee Weaver, Jake Mogelson, and Michael Shemtov decided it was time to flip the fine dining experience. No more preciousness of plate or hoity-toity ‘tude. The overriding mission at Fancypants is playful, all while seriously exploring the vast, delectable possibilities of plant-based fare. Diners get to pick their own dining adventure: three offerings from the rotating prix-fixe menu grid of nine. There are also add-ons from the “Bonus Menu.” The Fancypants way is to surprise you at points throughout the meal with culinary gifts.
That starts at the reception, where you’ll be checked in and presented with a welcome cocktail — the “Booze-Amuse,” which in our case was Cava sparked with lemon, bitters, and the house hibiscus syrup. Take a sip and step through the metallic gold fringe curtain into the Fancypants main dining room, bar, and open kitchen. Its color scheme of reds, oranges, browns, and golds recalls the 70’s, with bold patterned fabrics on the banquettes.
ANDREW CEBULKA
Drapery behind the bar fits the vibe while strategically helping to soften sound. Music is more background; you can hear and be heard. A bank of windows, its upper shelves lined with knickknacks of the era, looks into the adjacent sheltered (and climate-controlled) outdoor seating area, decorated in complementary green.
As you peruse the menus, nosh on the gift of cashews in togarashi spices. If you’d like another cocktail (or a mocktail), you’ll find beverage director David Norris’ roster of seasonals and classics, each concocted with finesse, all cleverly named for pant styles. Want an espresso martini, the vodka infused with cold brew, amaro, cinnamon, and whipped coconut? Order Romper. The Fancypants Old Fashioned, Overalls, is a celebration of its foundational ingredient, corn. The classic libation melds single-barrel Buffalo Trace, charred corn, corn nut angostura bitters, and a buttered corn tincture. Mocktails are just as well-crafted, with names like Track Suit and Yoga Pants, the latter of which has a refreshing mojito taste.
Chef de cuisine Joshua Homacki brings the vegetable-forward fare to life, and your server is happy to guide you through the menu grid. Starting at the top horizontal row, the progression moves from lighter to more substantial. You may want to choose an item from each row — but it’s not imperative. Choose what you want. Share or don’t. It’s your dining adventure! You may also add a dish from the bonus menu, should you desire. With the exception of two Bonus menu items, (Steak Tartare and Sour Cream Onion-Caviar Dip) everything is vegetarian. Most are vegan, and many are gluten-free. Also, if you like, order Bread Service from the Bonus menu.
Free for the asking, the warm round of focaccia is delicious swiped through the accompanying extra virgin olive oil spiked with smoked salt and Chinese long pepper. It is served to you “Rip and Dip” fashion.
Following are some highlights from our recent dining experience. Know, though, that the menu is fluid, seasonal, and not posted online (“What’s the fun in that?” the Fancypants team says). The three courses comprise a generous meal, so you may not need another item from the Bonus. But if you do — the Watermelon Crudo, meaty pickled watermelon rind topped with tiny orbs of Japanese cucumber, sesame, and watermelon molasses, is a wonder.
From the first row of the grid, we chose Grilled Eggplant. Piled with wild plum kimchi, labneh, crisp slivers of garlic, and shallots, it was remarkable in its combination of savory, sweet, and pungency tastes — highly favored by our group. We loved the pastas and pasta-like dishes, the latter being a lasagne of noodle-mimicking turnip slices layered with red sauce, Tulsi basil, and Parmesan foam. Other offerings exhibit similar creativity: Miso butter and peanut chili crunch bring a balance of rich texture and zing to mafaldine entwined with strips of zucchini. Little shells cloaked in sauce of stone yogurt and preserved lemon impart creamy comfort; focaccia crumbs and basil buds add texture and dimension to this satisfying dish.
ANDREW CEBULKA
The Grilled Lion's Mane Mushroom dish has become the most ordered, and it is easy to understand why. Conceived as an alternative to a steakhouse entree, it features the beefy mushrooms in vegetable demi-glace over potato purée. So luscious, it hits all those umami comfort notes you’d expect in its meaty counterpart. Appropriately, it comes with a side salad of romaine dressed in yuzu labneh, reminiscent of a Caesar.
Other dishes of note? Chicken-Fried Cauliflower, the lightly pickled florets in a toothsome potato crust, served with sambal raisins and coconut gravy. The Poblano chili, which is stuffed with and pooled in myriad elements: crispy rice, sumac-sesame lentils, cultured sweet potato, sunchoke miso molé.
Executive pastry chef Katie Fair has created desserts that are in sync with the savories. She makes a terrific fresh fruit tart with vegan custard and caramelized coconut. At this writing, it’s peaches, but will change with the seasons. Baked with rainbow sprinkles over a sugar cookie crust, her Birthday Cheesecake captures pure joy. You’ll also get a parting gift of pate de fruits — those French jellies that can take on a host of flavors. More childlike joy: ours was grape, dusted in peanut butter powder.
Service is warm, knowledgeable, and attentive. You will engage with several staff members, who will bring your courses, drinks, and complimentary treats. Each is intent on you having a great experience. Hey Fancypants, this is Honest to Goodness hospitality, after all.
(921 Dickerson Pike, 615-964-7917; wearefancypants.com)