When first-generation Indian American Vivek Surti opened Tailor six years ago, diners became entranced by his beautiful orchestration of courses that highlight his Gujarati culture, how those dishes changed — as inspired by ingredients available in Middle Tennessee — and his family stories connected to them.
Dining at Tailor is more than a meal. Foremost, you feel like a feted guest at an intimate dinner party. Further, it’s an entertaining learning experience. We hunger for good stories as much as delicious food, and this chef knows how to sate both.
Fall is an exciting time of year for Surti, as it is filled with opportunities for getting family and friends together, making memories, and telling stories. The season kicks off with one of the most important Hindu traditions: Diwali, or Festival of Lights. Typically held in late October to early November, on a date aligned with the new moon, this five-day celebration commemorates the triumph of light over darkness, knowledge over ignorance, good over evil. It heralds the Hindu new year with the promise of prosperity. For the Surti family, Diwali held — and still holds— a wonder and joy akin to what Americans experience for Christmas. The chef takes pleasure in sharing some of the foods and customs of Diwali that have long been a part of his family.
“We decorate in colors of bright yellow, orange, red, and gold,” he explains. “Diyas, which are small votive candles in earthenware vessels, are set outside and all around — part of the tradition of lighting the way, symbolic of the return of Lord Rama after he defeated the Demon King.”
Another decorative tradition is Rangoli, stenciled designs in colored sands and flowers at the entrance of the home to welcome these gods and bring good luck.
Each of the five days has a special focus. The first is devoted to honoring the ancestors. For that meal, the Surtis prepare the favorite foods of those who have passed — a meaningful way of preserving those connections. The second night honors Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth. A new coin is added to family collection of Indian and American coins. It was Surti and his sister’s favored task to wash the coins in colored powders and milk, then dry, and polish them. The ceremony for the third night honors the bonds between siblings. His sister would tie the Rakhi, a protective bracelet on his wrist. In turn, he would give her a gift. The fourth night is the time for the huge family feast, which, as Surti notes, “feels like New Year’s Eve,” followed by the fifth day, which features the sharing of sweets.
“My parents are vegetarians. Growing up, that big feast was vegetable-driven, but always in a way that elevated the dishes. Special elements such as nuts, saffron, and rosewater were added to give the royal treatment,” Surti says. “For the Diwali menu I’ve created here, I have a real mixture of my mom’s traditional fare and my inspiration. Even if I vary from mom, our thought processes are very similar.”
He includes a meat: roast leg of lamb, seasoned in a rub of cashew paste, ginger, and black pepper served in a sauce of turmeric-infused coconut milk. He enhances basmati rice, folding the staple with browned onions, pistachios, and pomegranate arils. Grilled zephyr squash, which is not a classic offering, is sparked with a classic Indian-chili peanut relish, along with Tulsi basil and lemon. His refreshing salad of cucumbers in a pool of yogurt with aji dulce peppers is a modern version influenced by the cooling side dish, raita. And, as he loves green beans, always associating them with a holiday feast, he prepares them with traditional spicing of toasted mustard and cumin seeds.
Diwali combines celebration and remembering. As a first-generation Indian American, Surti feels the importance and urgency of sharing, so that foods and customs can be understood, appreciated, and passed on.
“Otherwise, these will be forgotten,” he says. “We lose identity.” And he recognizes another aspect: “We live in amazing times in America. Kids today have access to a wide range of foods to eat. It could be Thai on Monday, tacos on Tuesday, sushi on Wednesday, cheeseburgers on Thursday, and so on. What we are cooking contributes to the American culinary fabric.”
In that spirit, Vivek Surti welcomes you to incorporate Diwali traditions that resonate (how wonderful to make the favorite dishes of family members who are no longer with us in their memory!) and shares two of his recipes from this year’s family celebration.
Basmati Rice with Browned onion, Pistachio, and Pomegranate Seeds
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 1 cup Basmati rice, washed until clear
- 2 tbsp neutral oil, such as grapeseed
- 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
- 1⁄4 cup roasted pistachios, roughly chopped
- 1⁄4 cup pomegranate seeds (arils)
- 3 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped
- Salt
Directions:
- Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat and add the red onions. Add salt to season, and let the onions cook until they are brown and crispy, about 15-20 minutes.
- Put the washed rice into a pot and cover with 2 cups of water and a pinch of salt. Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat to low. Cover with a lid and cook for 10-12 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the rice steam, undisturbed, for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and fluff with a fork.
- Add the browned onions and any residual oil, the chopped pistachios, pomegranate seeds, and cilantro, tossing gently to combine well.
Green Beans with Mustard Seed, Cumin Seed, and Ginger
Serves 4
Ingredients:
- 1 lbs. fresh green beans, each bean cut into three pieces
- 1 tbsp neutral oil, such as grapeseed
- 1⁄2 tbsp mustard seeds
- 1⁄2 tbsp cumin seeds
- 1⁄2 medium white or yellow onion, chopped
- 2 tbsp fresh ginger, shredded
- 1 tbsp Serrano chile, chopped
- 1 tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped
- Salt
Directions:
- Pour the oil into a skillet set over medium- high heat. When the oil is hot, add the mustard seeds until popping (about 2 seconds) then add the cumin seeds.
- Stir in the chopped onion; season with salt and cook until golden, about 3 minutes.
- Add the ginger and Serrano chile, cooking until aromatic, about 1 minute.
- Add the green beans, stirring and cooking until tender, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and garnish with chopped cilantro.