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VICTORIA QUIRK
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VICTORIA QUIRK
Frankies 925 Spuntino, Pizzeria, and Bottega are creating delicious community through this three-part enterprise.
In 2004, partners and chefs Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli (aka “The Franks”) opened a charming Italian restaurant, Frankies 457 Spuntino, in Brooklyn’s historically Italian neighborhood, Carroll Gardens. It was a bold move for these culinary pioneers — Carroll Gardens was not well known, and Brooklyn hadn’t yet become cool — but they believed in cultivating community.
By providing delectable food, drinks, and gracious hospitality, Frankies 457 Spuntino would become the hub around which a community could grow. Indeed, it has evolved as a family and neighborhood- centric eatery, as well as a dining destination for those craving its creative takes on traditional Italian fare. Manhattanites cross the bridge for Frankies.
Now, two decades later, The Franks, (spearheaded by their longtime Food and Beverage Director and now partner, John Burns Paterson), have expanded outside New York City. They have staked their claim in the new, mixed-use Laurel & Pine development in East Nashville, offering three separate yet intertwined enterprises: Frankies 925 Spuntino, its anchor full-service restaurant; The Pizzeria, a walk-up for their artisanal slices and whole pies; and The Bottega, a market purveying a variety of ingredients that make Frankies’ fare distinctively delicious. Paterson, an Alabama native, had a long run in NYC, starting as a sommelier in 2008 at Craftbar, followed by a stint at NoMad, before his onboarding at Frankies 457 where he had been since 2011. The pandemic prompted his longing to return to the South. Paterson felt ready to open his own restaurant, and he was attracted to the spirit of Nashville. In October 2021, he went to tell The Franks of his plans to resign. That meeting took an unexpected turn.
With its combination of loft apartments, industrial-style retail units, and green space tucked on the other side of the railroad tracks off Gallatin Pike, the Laurel & Pine campus suited the Frankie vision: Pioneering, with the real opportunity to grow a community. In addition to the L&P Flats, there’s also Switchyards, an already sold-out coworking club, and a gym. Two neighborhoods are within walking distance as well. Both the Pizzeria and Spuntino boast expansive patios — the former offers plenty of space for kids to run about, the latter recreates the feeling of the Carroll Gardens backyard with trees and greenery, lush planters, plus a series of six-tops sheltered under umbrellas and sunshade sails. It beckons: Come and hang out for a spell.
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VICTORIA QUIRK
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VICTORIA QUIRK
We hung out for a spell with partner and General Manager, John Burns Paterson, who shared the vision for Frankies Nashville.
Nashville Lifestyles: Does Frankies Nashville differ from the Brooklyn original?
John Burns Paterson: Everything we do is very intentional, almost maniacal. So, we decided to take our time first honing and mastering the Frankies classics. These are dishes that represent the food both Franks grew up eating, or food that inspired them as they grew in their professions and created their recipes. The kitchen in Brooklyn is small; [in Nashville] it is not. We bake our own bread, for instance. We have the ability to do more, seasonally, too. The sky is the limit. I am blown away by the local farmers markets, the long growing season, and the beautiful produce. I’ve been excited to get to know and work with a number of producers. sommelier and reimagined their wine program. Ultimately, you designed Franks Wine Bar. Tell us about your love of wine and how you are infusing that in Frankies Nashville.
JBP: This is very personal to me. When you come into the restaurant, you’ll see our wine room. It sets a tone. I am passionate about wine and excited to introduce our customers to our program. Value is important to me. Whether by the glass or bottle, I want a range that can be modest in cost to pricey. I am not dogmatic in what I pick, but it must be a wine of place, not manipulated to mimic place. Of course, it must be delicious. My goal is to build a rotating collection of 2000 bottles covering 200 selections. We are planning a series of wine dinners. We want to keep them casual and affordable, and always served at one long table, family style. Our staff is so passionate and educated about wine. Wine is fun. Wine is infectious!
NL: What does “Spuntino” mean?
JBP: In Italian, it means “little snack,” but it also denotes a kind of all-day dining spot. I’ll also mention that our focus is our antipasti, soups, salads, and handmade pastas. If you want our pizza, just walk next door into the Pizzeria.
NL: I know some people who will grab a slice as a prelude to dinner at the Spuntino.
JBP: That works!
NL: How did the Bottega come to fruition?
JBP: We got a taste for it in New York during the pandemic, when we had to figure out how to stay in business. We realized that we make all this really good stuff, so we converted one dining area into a shop. It did well, but we discontinued it after the world opened back up. But it showed us the possibilities, and there was the space to have one on this campus. It’s new for us! You can come by for an espresso or a cold brew and an Italian pastry. You can pick up our brand of olive oil, some salumi, our fresh pastas, specialty cheeses — terrific things we make, or happen to like. You’ll be able to see into our pasta room; see it in the works.
NL: What would you recommend a first-time diner to order at the Spuntino?
JBP: It’s funny, but I often eat the same thing every time. I like to start with a plate of prosciutto. With its salty, savory flavor, it’s so good with a glass of wine or a Negroni. I love our Veggie Antipasti, and will order an array of carrots, cauliflower, peppers, and broccoli rabe. Our Escarole Salad is a must, it’s one of the best sellers in New York.
NL: One of our favorites is the Escarole- Cannellini Soup, and the sweet potato ravioli in Parmesan broth.
JBP: Yes! That ravioli — that broth — has been a menu staple from day one. I’ll never grow tired of the Cavatelli with hot sausage and sage brown butter. But in the summer, I’ve got to have our Eggplant Marinara. It has a lightness you won’t find in traditional eggplant parm. And for dessert? The Tiramisu. I think we all have a relationship to Italian food and the variations we’ve had in our households growing up. Those variations are key to the Franks. (925 Cherokee Ave., 615-964-7626; frankiesnashville.com)