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Chelsea Smith
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Chelsea Smith
Tucked on the fourth floor of The Fairlane Hotel, singular in downtown Nashville for its ’70s modernist style, Ellington’s has been a kind of hidden gem since its 2018 opening.
We’ve long been enamored with the swank setting that harkens back to the Mad Men/Three-Martini Lunch era with its savvy escapist vibe, far from the madding crowd of lower Broadway. Its outdoor terrace, replete with comfortable lounge seating and tables, wraps around Union and 4th Avenue, affording a cool perspective of The Arcade, the historic Southern Turf building (now Sinatra Bar and Lounge), the L&C Tower, and the vintage bus perched on The Bobby rooftop. Get a chi chi cocktail from the bar (Vive la Revolution, a vigorous icy shake of gin, elderflower liqueur, chartreuse, citrus, and egg white is right for the season) find your seat, and take in the views.
Introducing his reimagined spring menu, executive chef Christopher Ayala gives you yet another reason to visit—or revisit— Ellington’s. He has drawn on his heritage and further infused the offerings with Spanish flair. You’ll find some of his classics: churrasco steak dressed in almond- chili chimichurri or shrimp and grits with piquillo peppers. Look further and you’ll find a dozen or more creative dishes to savor. From the Start section, we recommend the Potato Croquette, patterned after the Spanish tapas favorite, croqueta. Rounds of Manchego- laced potatoes, mashed and rolled in fine breadcrumbs, are fried to a delicate crunch, served with salsa roja—puréed tomato, garlic, peppers, and a hint of smoky pimentÓn. Florets of cauliflower nestled in blue cheese cream sparked with chili oil makes another compelling appetizer.
Fresh asparagus is a sure sign of spring, and Ayala uses both green and white varieties, blanched and chilled, for his salad. Composed in mandala-like fashion, the spears criss-cross over puddles of saffron aioli, caramelized yogurt, and herbed vinaigrette. It is as flavorful as it is visually stunning. For a soup course, you’ll relish his Raviolo—navy beans simmered to tenderness in herbed broth, supporting a single pasta parcel stuffed with pork sausage. Not heavy, yet layered with flavor, this makes a nice segue to the entrees.
Ayala’s treatment of beef filet, seasoned with black garlic and roasted to rosy tenderness, is exceptional, especially as plated over his uber- rich and luscious Manchego Potatoes. He expertly prepares Ōra King Salmon, searing it to just medium. Forming a base for the filet is a mound of saffron rice studded with English peas and lemon gold tomatoes and a swathe of fennel cream. Each dish is layered with flavors and unexpected details that make them mouthwatering and unforgettable.
Dessert can be light and refreshing.Try his watermelon gazpacho: Pour the naturally sweet purée onto a plate containing a quenelle of honey ice cream and small squares of sable cookies, like croutons. Let it set in for a moment, then scoop up a spoonful and enjoy. It’s a playful and creative way to end a meal that’s just that. (401 Union St., 615-988-7333; ellingtons.restaurant)