A premier Nashville landmark, the Hermitage Hotel is treasured for many things: its Beaux-Arts architecture—a step inside the opulent, meticulously restored lobby is always a revelation; its role in history— in particular as epicenter of the women’s suffrage movement when Tennessee became the key to the 19th Amendment ratification; and its commitment to sustainability—through its longstanding partnership with the Land Trust of Tennessee and its cultivation of hyper- local produce at Glen Leven.
Long-acclaimed for the hotel’s gold standard of service, the owners and team have also been looking forward: How could they enliven the 113-year-old establishment with 21st century modernity, while preserving its iconic stature? Indeed, in the renovation of an historic property, the challenge is to honor its character while giving it the needed updates. It’s been an exciting multi-year project, underscored by a collaboration with internationally celebrated chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten.
Jean-Georges, as he is best known, became first entranced with the history of the Hermitage Hotel, but it wasn’t until he visited that he got on board with the idea of a partnership—the project that would become Druise & Darr. Having opened 40 restaurants around the world, this would be his first foray into the South.
“I felt the energy of Nashville,” Jean- Georges recalls. “I could tell this city loves food and I felt so welcome. The Hermitage Hotel is one of the most iconic places in Nashville but with the renovation, I saw an opportunity to offer something completely new. This was the hotel’s chance to be reborn, and this was my chance to be born in Nashville.”
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Outside of food, design is one of Jean- Georges’ top passions. He brought in Thomas Juul-Hansen, with whom he’s worked for years on most of his restaurants. Details, such as the grand columns, vaulted ceilings, and original oak walls have been preserved but given a modern uplift. What had felt closed in and dated in the Capitol Grille is now open and elegant, complemented by white painted walls, mirrors, and contemporary abstract paintings.
The once-concealed kitchen—another total makeover—is now open and on display. Modern chandeliers suspend from the ceiling peaks; uplighting defines the classic vaulted curves; and small lamps bring luminosity and intimacy to each table. What had been the darkened and separate Oak Bar is now an expansive bar and lounge that feels connected to the restaurant. Original elements of its ceiling and side doors have also been repurposed. Additionally, the women’s restroom has been remodeled in pink marble deco fashion, a proper companion to the men’s famous jade and black one.
Bold and daring, the overall result is a beautiful transformation. Taking a page from another chapter in its life, a new story unfolds for the Hermitage Hotel.
“I wanted to honor the history of the hotel,” Jean-Georges says. “Hence, why we’re calling the restaurant Drusie & Darr, who were the children of Dick Hall, the hotel General Manager in the 1950s and ’60s. They lived a kind of storybook existence growing up on the property.”
Drusie & Darr’s modern American menu will change seasonally, using vegetables grown at the hotel’s two-acre garden at Glen Leven. Care is taken to source meat, fish, and dairy from local and regional producers, with emphasis on sustainable seafood and humanely treated, pasture-fed animals free of antibiotics and hormones.
Asian flavors and classic French preparations are woven throughout the menu. You’ll note a column of smaller format first course plates in the categories of Raw, Salads, Appetizers and Pasta/ Pizza; followed by mains, classified as Plants, Fish, and Meat; Simple (as in straightforward entrée preparations); and Sides.
“The menu features a combination of new and signature dishes,” says Jean-Georges. “The common thread? Most, if not all, have a kick of spice and acidity, usually in the form of citrus, which is what I add to most, if not all, of my dishes.”
While the restaurant radiates elegance, the chef is quick to point out that Drusie & Darr is also approachable. There is something for everyone. Perhaps you’d like a pizza. From the blazing oven in the open kitchen, you could have a pie with spicy salami, broccoli rabe, and ricotta or black truffle- fontina. A Grilled NY Strip sidled by shishito peppers and preserved black bean vinaigrette offers a simple yet sophisticated option, while the elaborate prime filet with parsnip puree, roasted Brussels sprouts, and miso mustard elevates the meat even more. Jean-Georges is keen to provide more plant- based (vegan) fare, and is excited for his guests to try his Celeriac Katsu. He shares similar excitement for his Organic Fried Chicken on wild rice with pecans.
The chef includes his signature Ahi Tuna Tartare at many of his restaurants. This ideal starter is well loved, for good reason. Meticulously cubed fillet is placed on a timbale of crushed avocado, and thin discs of radish crown its top like a flower. Your server pours its heady ginger dressing onto the plate, tableside. The Warm Shrimp Salad beautifully juxtaposes opposing temperatures, textures, and tastes. Warm jumbo shrimp cloaked in bright champagne vinaigrette sit atop chilled lettuces, avocado, and petite diced tomatoes, with mushroom-truffle vinaigrette deepening flavors at the base.
Other highlights include the bowl of Maine Lobster in longevity noodles, and the Faroe Island Salmon. In the former, generous hunks of lobster tail and claw nestle in strands of Chinese pasta punched up with scallions and slivers of green chili in fragrant gingery broth. The latter sports a porcini mushroom encrusted fillet served in a lemony pool of warm leek vinaigrette. It may be the most French preparation of the offerings and it is flawless.
Did you know that Jean-Georges, through a happy accident decades ago, created the first molten chocolate cake? Common on menus throughout the country, his original version, made with the finest ingredients, is not to be missed. It’s a perfectly decadent way to end a perfectly executed meal.
Drusie & Darr
231 6th Ave. N 615-244-3121
What to order:
Ahi Tuna Tartare, $24 Celeriac Katsu, $24 Warm Shrimp, $24 Fried Organic Chicken, $34 Maine Lobster, $68