When visiting another country, it’s best to follow the ancient proverb, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.”
And when the foodways of Rome come to Nashville, dine as the Romans do. That’s the premise of DeLuca, a restaurant rooted in these traditions, recently opened in the former Porta Via location on White Bridge Road.
Executive Chef Rosario DeLuca and General Manager Angelo Ferrante are both natives of The Eternal City. The son of Calabrian parents, Chef DeLuca had his passion for cooking initially sparked by his grandmother. As a young man, he moved quickly from working the restaurant floor to the kitchen, where he mastered the art of Roman pastas. Ferrante, who is also a Level 2 Sommelier, honed his skills in the hospitality industry first in New York City before coming to Nashville 14 years ago, making his mark in fine dining establishments, including Kayne Prime, Prima, and Yolan. Together, they are introducing diners to the Old-World sensibilities that are intrinsic parts of their makeup. DeLuca has the feel of an intimate, upscale, family-owned restaurant you can still find in Rome.
Its layout is essentially unchanged from the Porta Via days — one half is a reception/bar and lounge area and steps lead to the other side, filled with tables and booths. The ambiance is dark and cozy, upscale yet relaxed. Chill 60s-era jazz plays over the sound system: a little bossa nova and “Fly Me to the Moon.”
In typical Italian format, the menu is divided into sections of Antipasti, Primi, Secondi, Insalate, Contorni, and Dolci. It’s worth noting that they have continued the Porta Via tradition of wood- fired pizzas in both red and white sauce bases. Ingredients are of the utmost importance. Masters of Italian cuisine will tell you that while there is a simplicity to the fare, it all hinges on using the finest products. So, when you order a plate of prosciutto and burrata, you’ll note the difference. “San Daniele is superior to prosciutto di Parma,” Ferrante says.
This 16-month cured prosciutto is made in the northeast corner of Italy, and benefits from its surroundings: the cooler temperature of the Dolomite mountains and the salty air of the Adriatic Sea. It results in a meat that is rosier, more supple, and sweetly complex. You’ll relish it alone, or paired with the lush burrata, or draped over crusty triangles of flatbread that is fresh and warm from the wood-fired oven.
The classic Roman pasta dishes should not be missed. Of course, the pasta itself is made in-house. In authentic Roman preparation, either spaghetti or rigatoni is used for the Carbonara. Here, it is the latter, a smaller-sized rigatoni cloaked in whipped egg-cheese mixture and crisp bits of guanciale. The innovation is its edible serving vessel: a Pecorino Romano frico in the shape of a bowl. Cacio e Pepe, deceptive in its assembly of four ingredients: pasta, Pecorino Romano, coarse ground black pepper, and pasta water, is a marvel when properly prepared. Chef DeLuca’s execution, using an ultra-thin tonnarelli (distinctive with its square-shaped strands) and folded with the right meld of cheese, toasted black pepper, and water, provides soul satisfaction.
The risotto is made with similar care and attention. Currently, the short-grained rice is stirred in an umami-laden broth, rich with porcini mushrooms, and finished with shavings of black truffle. The aromatics are incredible. If you love truffles, this is heady stuff.
There are a few salad offerings on the menu; we recommend the Arancio e Finocchio (that is, Orange and Fennel). In a clever presentation — a hollowed orange — chef DeLuca places a mixture of shaved fennel, macerated orange, and Castelvetrano olives in a citrusy vinaigrette. Bright and refreshing, it serves also as an ideal palate cleanser before you move into the Secondi, or main course.
Ferrante recommends Spigola al Sale, a whole Mediterranean sea bass seasoned with lemon, parsley, and garlic and baked in a salt crust. It is an impressive dish, served tableside. With a rap of the spoon, your server removes the crust and prepares the filets for you and your companion. This is a fine entree to share, with the lemon and herb-scented fish flaking into tender bites. Order the grilled vegetables — eggplant, zucchini, tomato, and sweet red pepper — to accompany.
A word about wines: Ferrante has hand-picked an impressive roster of Italian vinos, offered by the bottle or glass. A level 2 Sommelier, he has the expertise to guide you in proper pairings. Impero is a Pinot Grigio blended with 10% Trebbiano grapes and is luscious alongside the Spigola. Poggio Le Volpi is an important winery in the Lazio region (wherein Rome lies) and Ferrante has chosen their Roma Doc Rossa, an earthy, mineral red combining Montepulciano, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot varietals. Enjoy it with the classic pastas such as Amatriciana or Carbonara.
From the roster of Dolci, you’ll find the well- known tiramisu made well. There are also some unexpected treats such as Cremino di Frutti di Bosco — curious and delicious rounds of fried custard over puff pastry topped with fresh berries. Finish your meal with an espresso, served in clear glass, “al vetro” so you can better appreciate its layer of crema. Many Italians swear that it tastes better, and we won’t argue that point. DeLuca makes a terrific espresso. (21 White Bridge Rd. Ste. 104, 615-352-0555; delucanashville.com)