Kristen Holliday
In the Capitol View neighborhood, Joe Muer Seafood recently welcomed guests into its lavish new digs, the restaurant’s first foray outside its home turf of Detroit, Michigan.
With a glitzy central bar, crisp linen-draped tables, plush booths, contemporary chandeliers, and an elevated grand piano, it’s old school made anew. The waitstaff dress in complementary garb: white jackets, black pants, and red bow ties. Revel in the swanky ambiance, while dining on delecta- ble surf (and turf !) preparations, presented and served with panache.
The elegant restaurant emerged from humble beginnings almost a century ago. In 1929, cigar maker Joe Muer Jr. decided to put in an oyster bar at his place of business, located near Detroit’s Eastern Market. As the bar grew in popularity, it took over more of the business’ real estate. Over time, the seven-table eatery morphed into the upscale Joe Muer Seafood, Motor City’s chi-chi place to see and be seen, beloved for its exquisite food, wines, and service. The family-run business continued through generations but shuttered in 1998. In 2011, restaurateur Joe Vicari worked with the family to bring the dining institution— its good name, recipes, and level of service— back. Now, reestablished and lauded more than ever, Joe Muer Seafood is enjoying a new life.
The decision to expand to Nashville came a few years ago, when Vicari attended the Country Music Awards. He was charmed by our city’s vibrancy and creative, community- forward culture. He and his team began to scout out potential locations; ultimately choosing a 12,000-square-foot space under development at Capitol View. Because Joe Muer Seafood has nearly a hundred years of experience dedicated to sourcing worldwide, diners in our landlocked city can feel confident about the freshness and sustainability.
“Word on the street was Nashville needed more upscale seafood options, and we are pleased to be able to fill that void,” says General Manager Oleg Bulut. “We are also proud to be the first fine dining spot in Capitol View. Tucked between the Gulch and downtown, this neighborhood is a hidden gem everyone needs to know about.”
Under the direction of Bulut, a seasoned professional who led the opening team for Jean- Georges at the Hermitage Hotel, the staff is well-versed in both food and beverage offerings and the art of fine service. If you’ve heard the buzz about their signature Smoked Old Fashioned—it is warranted. The cocktail arrives enclosed in a chest, like the treasure it is. At presentation, your server lifts the lid releasing a poof of smoke revealing your drink. Lightly smoke-kissed, it’s a luscious sip, right for the season. Nosh on the complimentary amuse-bouche: white beans with mirepoix and peppers marinated in a light vinaigrette, which you can spoon onto any of the assorted toasts and crackers that accompany—a Muer tradition.
Expect a fine assortment of shellfish to start your meal. There are some surprises: an extraordinary shrimp cocktail—colossal in size, poached in Court-bouillon, and sidled by the fiery house red sauce. Chilled King Crab Legs, a luxury in and of themselves, get boosted with their Bloody Mary cocktail sauce. We also recommend Crab Imperial—deviled crabmeat baked in its natural shell—another Muer tradition. Modern classics include Shrimp Ilene, cooked in garlic butter, and toasted almond breadcrumbs. And, while not shellfish, the
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Big Eye Tuna Tartare, with its fine-cubed filet stacked with avocado and seaweed salad on a crispy rice cake, is not to be missed. You’ll relish the courses presented tableside. For the Lobster Bisque, your server will place a bowl of butter-poached meat before you and pour the complex sherry and brandy-enriched broth over it. They will skillfully trim and debone the Dover Sole Veronique a la Nage, and spoon the sauce of artichokes, leeks, capers, and grapes simmered in cream over the delicate filets.
We also need to mention the Lobster Pot Pie, generously laden with hunks of lobster (ours had an entire claw!) in sauce américaine. The roasted halibut filet is another excellent choice, distinguished with its creamy Ceci bean (garbanzo) butter sauce, bits of charred onion, and a bundle of micro-herbs.
There are several notable sides as well. Potatoes get the royal treatment, either in the classic French Dauphinoise or Hashed in Cream, a golden hash brown cake over garlicky-herbed cream sauce. The sauté of Wild Mushrooms makes a fine accompaniment to any of the surf-and-turf offerings. The sleeper is the surprisingly sophisticated Tomato Cobbler. San Marzano plum tomatoes are baked with herbs, cheese, and pastry in a cast-iron casserole, which enhances their inherent savory- sweetness. It’s a marvelous dish.
And just wait until they wheel over the cart of desserts, where there are no fewer than nine temptations. Likely you cannot go wrong with any choice: Hot Fudge Profiterole, A Study of French Crepes, Strawberry Mascarpone Trifle. We will vouch for the Coconut Cake, luscious white chiffon layers coated and filled with cream cheese icing, all showered in coconut flakes. It has been, for good reason, a Joe Muer mainstay for decades.
As a historically family-owned business committed to local initiatives and philanthropy, Joe Muer Seafood plans to continue that mission in Nashville. The team looks forward to being a part of the city’s fabric in the months to come.
“Collaborative chef experiences and special pairings dinners are always something you can expect from us,” says Bulut. “Events like Bartender Bash, Dine Nashville, and L’Ete du Vin are on our radar for 2024. Foremost, though, is our commitment to always serve sustainably caught, exceptionally fresh seafood to our guests.”
(500 11th Ave. N., 615-433-6837; joemuer.com)