Born in Mexico City, esteemed chef and cookbook author Roberto Santibañez embarked on his career, studying at and graduating from Le Cordon Bleu in Paris.
While it gave him a solid foundation in fine French techniques, it was the culinary traditions of his homeland that he felt compelled to explore. At Fonda, recently launched in the 12 South neighborhood, diners have the pleasure of experiencing his meld of the two. His menu is replete with creative dishes, fine-tuned at his trio of Fonda restaurants in New York, representing the best of Old and New Worlds.
Fonda, in Spanish, simply means “inn” or “restaurant.” When Santibañez’s longtime friend, entrepreneur Howard Greenstone (Adele’s and Sadie’s) learned that Josephine was closing after its 10-year run, he approached the chef with the opportunity.
“Roberto and I worked closely together at Rosa Mexicano in New York,” Greenstone says. “I knew this would be an ideal location for Fonda.”
The former Josephine space was transformed into a contemporary Mexican restaurant — warm in its color scheme of earth tones punctuated by bursts of pastels. There’s a bustling bar as you first enter, with the main dining room to the left. Your eyes will be drawn to the made-to-order Guacamole station, where ripe avocados are cut, scooped, and blended with diced white onion, chilis, and a squeeze of fresh lime in a molcajete — the traditional Mexican stone mortar and pestle. It is presented in this vessel, accompanied by house-made chips and salsa. The chips are served warm and crispy; the salsa is a smooth purée, tinged with cumin. Made as fiery (or not) as you like, the whole shebang is generous in size and gratifying in texture and taste: a lively beginning to enjoy with an assertive Margarita, sweet-salty Paloma, or citrus-forward Sangria.
In consultation with Greenstone and his partner Pennington Pribbenow, Santibañez designed Fonda’s menu specifically for Music City. That exceptional Guacamole en Molcajete is the headliner, followed by an array of Botanas, or snacks. Those include his singular Queso, enhanced with roasted poblano cream, and Queso Fundido: a skillet of chorizo, browned under a cloak of bubbly Chihuahua cheese, ready to spoon in great stretches onto warm blue corn tortillas. The central part of the menu lists Platos Pequenos: a roster of smaller, shareable plates. To the right are larger format dishes.
“We wanted the menu to be balanced and approachable to anyone,” says Greenstone. “If you are feeling a bit adventurous, focus on the small plates. If you are wanting something more traditional, we offer our Taco Boards and enchiladas.”
The enchiladas have an appealing look and taste that makes you think they came from mama’s cucina. Each taco board is a fiesta of salsas, black beans, slaw, and tortillas to accompany your choice of protein, be it pork carnitas, marinated skirt steak, lamb barbacoa, or chipotle-pulled chicken. There’s also a vegetarian option of wild mushrooms and spinach. Those small plates, however, best demonstrate Santibañez’s innovative approach.
Take, for instance, his Wagyu Rib Eye. Tender, rare-grilled slices are placed over a swathe of red molé sidled by seared maitake mushrooms, magnifying the umami tastes. Or the chile-roasted lobster tail perched over a bowl of creamy Esquites — Mexican street corn. You get two kinds of sweetness and heat in this luscious combination. There are compelling Tostadas — one plied with wood-grilled octopus laced with guajillo-peanut salsa and black bean purée, the other a ceviche of tuna, avocado, threads of red cabbage, and carrots in salsa verde vinaigrette, with a base of habanero aioli at the base of the tostadas bowl.
Speaking of that famous pepper — check out the Crab-Stuffed Empanadas, which come with a side of mango-habanero salsa. Imparting tropical notes, both fruity and fiery, it’s a fine complement to the sweet crabmeat, and elevates the already delectable pastries.
There are several salads of note. You’ll enjoy the nopales, or prickly pear, which has a flavor akin to okra. The cactus paddles are combined with tomato, avocado, red onion, and cilantro. The Ensalada de Sandia, Fonda’s watermelon- cucumber salad, is beautifully constructed in cubes and orbs, dressed in fresh lime. Not only is it right for the season, but it also provides bright, cool bites to refresh the palate between spicier dishes.
For dessert, you can’t go wrong with the sundae. It’s a más grande bowl of vanilla and chocolate ice creams, juxtaposed by a warm, cinnamon-sparked brownie at its base. Topping the scoops are shards of pepita praline and cajeta caramel drizzle. Ask for extra spoons, this one is for sharing.
While the foods of Mexico are widely known and loved in their many iterations, Chef Santibañez embraces a vision that honors the traditions of his heritage in modern ways. Even as our city is populated by numerous taquerias and cantinas, his concept sets Fonda 12 South apart. It appeals not solely to the tourists shopping along the stretch. Fonda is designed as a neighborhood restaurant, a place for locals. (2316 12th Ave. S., 615-800-4899; fondanashville.com)