FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
In late 2022, when Mimo opened on the ground floor of the Four Seasons luxury hotel, it quickly became a dining destination for locals and visitors alike.
Guests were entranced by its grand, contemporary lounge, bar, and dining rooms, its dramatic views of the riverfront, its forward Italian cuisine and wine program, and its dedication to fine service. Opening executive chef Nello Turco designed a menu melding Sicilian and Southern sensibilities. While he has moved on to another Four Seasons project, chef Francesco Greco has taken up the executive mantle, enlivening Mimo’s menu with his more northern Italian focus. The restaurant still embodies all of the original aspects while also enticing diners with Greco’s delectable regional offerings. A change in perspective can be refreshing.
“It is my goal for our guests to find our menu approachable and comforting, and the cooking of Tuscany has that kind of familiarity,” Greco says. “I want everyone to relax and enjoy the experience from start to finish.”
So, start with a celebratory glass of Ferrari Brut Rosé.This sparkling wine is crisp and dry, imparting notes of strawberry and red currant. Your server will present a complimentary bowl of flatbread crackers with a quenelle of finely minced olive tapenade — the taste is as robust as its deep purple color. Soon to follow is bread service: a small cast iron skillet holding squares of herbed focaccia, accompanied by a petite bowl of peppery olive oil.
Choices abound on the Raw Bar, from a lavish seafood tower to an elite caviar service complete with blinis, lemon crema, and chives. We also recommend the Hamachi Crudo: the platter is a stunning mosaic of masterfully sliced yellowtail painted in lemon oil and embellished with shaved fennel, chilis, pine nuts, and capers. Greco offers a trio of carpaccios for your consideration, including a delectable vegetarian version of sliced heirloom beets topped with julienned Granny Smith apples, toasted walnuts, Gorgonzola, and aged Balsamic vinegar.
Headlining the roster of appetizers is Greco’s irresistible Zucchini Blossoms. “These are different than many you may have experienced,” he says. “These are not fried.”
That brief cautionary note does little to prepare you for what’s to come. A trio of gently steamed blossoms encase whipped ricotta, each one a delicate packet placed over a puddled trio of sauces: almond pesto, tomato coulis, and Balsamic. The garnishes are micro-arugula leaves and heirloom grape tomatoes, with each orb meticulously blanched, peeled, and chilled. Indeed, his singular preparation is a feast for the senses; gorgeous to behold and sublime to eat.
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
As you might expect, Greco has assembled a compelling selection of pastas: Maine Lobster in chili-spiked roasted cherry tomatoes swirled through linguine; rosemary and orange-scented duck ragu in pappardelle; and Paccheri with Italian sausage, broccoli rabe, and ricotta salata. We especially relished his Agnolotti, handcrafted pasta packages containing a spinach-ricotta mixture, spooned with a creamy Parmigiano sauce and dotted with aged Balsamic. But do not dismiss his risotto — at this writing, inspired by springtime produce: asparagus, morels, and artichokes.
“I am from Milan, where risottos originated. I better know how to make a good one!” Greco says with a chuckle. He speaks the truth. The bowl holds a soulful balance of textures: the rice grains intact, cooked to a soft bite in a rich, spoon-creamy broth, elevated with sautéed morel mushrooms, curls of shaved asparagus, and fried artichoke chips.
You’ll find some intriguing entrees, too. The Iberico Pluma, a rare cut from the free-range Iberico pig native to Spain and Portugal, is prepared sous vide, then chargrilled. The richly flavored meat is finished simply with Maldon salt and balsamic reduction. Octopus is also skillfully grilled, then plated over smoked eggplant purée, salsa verde, and fingerling potatoes. Short rib is braised to tenderness in Chianti, accompanied by spring vegetable ragu.
It’s worth noting that Greco offers a 48-ounce, 55-day dry-aged Porterhouse, prepared in the Florentine manner. Seasoned with fresh rosemary, olive oil, (in this case, smoked garlic olive oil,) fresh lemon, and salt, the thick steak is rare grilled to succulence, and carved tableside.
It comes with a hefty price but will amply serve two to four people. Regardless of which entree you order, a side of Greco’s Rosemary Potatoes is a must. It is so much more than what you’d expect: a bowl of golden-brown potato cubes, each bite composed of a dozen or more uber-thin layers, each brushed in clarified butter mixed with chopped rosemary, cooked to a toothsome crunch. Scattered throughout the bowl are fried garlic slivers and chippy salt. Those cubes are like miniature Potatoes Anna — better, really — you can’t stop eating them!
FOUR SEASONS HOTEL
Pastry chef extraordinaire Hector Llompart joined the Mimo team at the same time as Greco, and he has created some memorable desserts. One is a tableside presentation of Tiramisu, where all of the elements: whipped mascarpone mousse, Savoiardi (Italian lady fingers) espresso liqueur, dark cocoa, and bittersweet chocolate shards are separate and assembled before your eyes. The crock of Tiramisu is large, generous, and very shareable. Another is his Amalfi Lemon, a trompe l’oeil confection that resembles two large lemons (typical of those grown on the Amalfi coast.) They are served in a sunny hand-painted ceramic dish, on a bed of ground pistachios, with actual lemon leaves attached to the fruit. Rap the citrus with your spoon to crack it open. The white chocolate shell, which has been airbrushed in hues of bright yellow and orange, opens to reveal lemon mousse and a center of basil gelée. It’s so beautiful you might hesitate to eat it, but so luscious you’ll be happy you did.
Whatever you choose to order, you’ll notice that sentiment spanning the entire menu — food that tastes just as incredible as it looks. (100 Demonbreun St., 615-610-6990; fourseasons.com/nashville)