Six years ago, Southern Grist Brewing Co. launched its brewery and taproom in a 430-square foot space in East Nashville and garnered a fast following for its creative, small batch beers and community vibe. Two years later, founders Kevin Antoon, Jamie Lee, and Jared Welch opened a second location in The Nations, which gave them the expansive production facility and taproom they sorely needed. Growth has not abated. In late 2021, they closed their original place on Porter Road, relocating into new, improved digs on Douglas Avenue, across from office/retail development, Highland Yards.
The building has the space to accommodate a large wraparound bar, 40 tap handles, two patios, and a highly desired concept: a full-service restaurant serving extraordinary pub fare. They brought on chef Andrew Coins (formerly of Miel) to helm the project that would be become Lauter.
The name is a nod to a key step in brewing: To lauter means to separate the clear, sugary liquid (the wort) from the spent grains of the cooked mash. Derived from the German abläutern, which means to cleanse, purify, or refine, it ties into Chef Coins’s approach.
“In designing the menu, I was motivated to take it well beyond typical bar fare,” Coins says. “I wanted fresh, clean food that would stand up to these out-of- the-box beers.”
To help him realize his vision, Kenji Nakagawa (also formerly of Miel) came aboard as Lauter’s chef de cuisine. This gives the kitchen a dynamic powerhouse in creating and executing dishes to complement the Southern Grist philosophy of “Innovative-Weird-Experimental-Great Tasting.” Coins’s menu is divided into Snacks, Shared Plates, Mains, and Desserts. You’ll notice an array of globe-trekking tastes, with several gluten-free and vegetarian options. And his commitment to using local produce shines through.
“The menu will be rotating and ever-changing,” says Coins. “I find creativity in the moment. I like to put together the emails from the farmers to see what they’ve got and build up from there.”
For the moment, Coins has built up some delectable bites. From the Snacks section, we’re partial to the Bao. Coins fills the soft bun with burnt sugar roasted pork (the meat sourced from local Bear Creek Farm), lightly fermented cabbage and carrot, and two sauces: tamarind chili and lime aioli. It’s a luscious balance of sweet-salt-savory-tangy.
Good fried chicken is always a temptation. Coins’ gluten-free version, boneless thigh marinated in umami-boosting koji, dusted in a potato starch and togarashi spice blend, is irresistible. He completes this unique preparation with a side pour of hot honey. Burgers and brewpubs go together, and Coins will tell you that his dry- aged burger is the number one seller. No surprise. The griddled double patties come sandwiched with a melt of white cheddar. House pickles, smoked Worcestershire, and onion bring on layers of flavor. For a modest upcharge, you can get a ladle of mushroom gravy to push it over the top. Then grab your knife and fork, and dig in.
Want something vegetable-centric? The fried rice will do the trick. It’s embellished with young mustard greens, homemade kimchi, kabocha squash, celery, and pickled radishes. It arrives crowned with an egg yolk to stir into the generous bowl. We also recommend the winter green salad. Ideal for sharing, it imparts Italian tastes in a clever combination of smoked green olives, apple, shaved ricotta salata, and Parmesan dressing.
“I’m a technique person,” says Coins. “I like to keep my staff learning. We talk everything through, because I often use several techniques in one dish.”
That is quite evident in his ramen. Noodles are made from scratch and hand- stretched. Pork bone broth is simmered to silkiness. Other elements filling the bowl—roast pork, soy sauce egg, scallions, kale charred in chicken fat, hearts of palm—are separately prepared with great skill. Providing soulful comfort, the whole is even greater than the sum of its parts. One thing that has surprised Coins has been the response to his desserts. He didn’t expect them to be so popular. But one spoonful of his s’mores-inspired confection, chocolate mousse surrounded by toasted marshmallow and sprinkled with smoked graham cracker crumbles, and you get it. Right down to the smell of the campfire.
Brand Manager Jessica Gonzales says having Lauter really elevates the Southern Grist experience. It all comes down to creating community. “Great food and beer are naturals,” she says. “We’re looking forward to the days when we’ll have the windows open up to the patios. Sitting at our communal tables, enjoying our brews and Andrew’s food gives people the sense of coming together.”
(754 Douglas Ave., 629-203-7159; southerngristbrewing.com)