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By dropping a burnt orange, 40-foot shipping container onto a site in The Gulch, the builders of The 404 Hotel and Kitchen have made a pretty sizable statement: We aren't opening your typical Nashville restaurant.
Attached to the micro-boutique, five-room hotel from developer Mark Banks, The 404 Kitchen opened in October as a jewel box of a stage for chef Matt Bolus. Banks met Bolus through a mutual friend while Bolus was working at Flyte World Dining and Wine and quickly tapped him create a concept to go alongside the hotel he was developing. 'This is designed to be a very focused environment and a very thought-out, structured system,” says Bolus. 'We're not trying to feed 300 people a nightwe can't, and we don't want to.”
Start with a drink.
Designed by sommelier Travis Brazil (formerly of Aura and Flyte), who is also a spirits expert, the beverage program takes its cue from the space: worldly, specialized, and unlike anything else in town. The wine list includes bottles not previously seen in Tennessee, like a 2010 August Briggs Cabernet Sauvignon. Same goes with the spirits: Whiskey lovers will appreciate Brazil's deep selection of Japanese labels. Meanwhile, on the menu, you'll find a mix of appetizers, entrées, and a handful of sides, all of which change regularly. Bolus is carefully focused on the ingredients, whether it's sheepshead fish out of Charleston or poultry from the Top of the World Farm in Westpoint, Tennessee. The selection includes a few seafood dishes, poultry, beef, and pasta. Sides are plentiful; we liked the roasted beets, which get a kick of earthiness from bits of guanciale.
Whatever you do, save room for dessert. Pastry chef Sam Tucker, a shining gem in Bolus's jewel box of a kitchen, makes the small selection of desserts (as well as the soft, springy bread) in-house. We opted for a plate of molten chocolate cookies with ice cream and wished we still had space to try the apple charlotte.
All of the tables are narrow and cozy, allowing you to either take part in Bolus's party with your neighbors or huddle in close for a more intimate conversation. Either way, it's lively and deliciousand just the kind of party you can't wait to get into again.
The 404 Kitchen 404 12th Ave. S.; 615-251-1404 the404nashville.com
What to eat:
Crudo; burrata; chicken liver pâté; Bear Creek Farm dry-aged tri-tip; oven-roasted beets; tilefish; pork ragout; anything they're serving for dessert
What to drink:
The wine list features more than 20 wines by the glass, many from producers not previously found in Tennessee, like August Briggs. The whiskey list is also extensive and features several labels from Japan.
Reservations:
Recommended; the small dining room fills up quickly. There are also about six seats at the bar.
Parking:
Complimentary valet