1 of 4
Photos by Nathan Zucker.
2 of 4
3 of 4
4 of 4
Zeppelin
550 3rd Ave. N, 629-236-0035, zeppelinnashville.com
What to order: Braised Butter Leeks on Toast, $14 Shrimp Cocktail, $18 Sticky Ribs, $19 Steak (NY Strip), $36
The first thing you should know about Zeppelin, the chic rooftop restaurant/bar on the seventh floor of TownePlace Suites, is that it showcases downtown Nashville from a completely different perspective. Viewed through its interior expanse of windows, or from the outside dining terrace, the vista is uncommon. Against the core of high-rises, you see the dome of the Municipal Auditorium (now Musicians Hall of Fame), the gold capped steeple of St. Mary’s, and the flags flying on the tower at the State Capitol.The brainchild of entrepreneur Scott Baird (of Big Little Fish hospitality and management), Zeppelin has a spacious, modern aesthetic that perfectly suits pandemic times.
There’s a long marble bar, and an assortment of seating that ranges from plush curved banquette-booths, to café dining tables to loveseat/table arrangements, offering groups and couples alike their own spaces to enjoy the experience. The vibe is laid back yet upbeat, artistic and jazzy. And, in addition to that fabulous view, Zeppelin delivers on the trifecta: terrific cocktails, creative dishes, and warm, informed service.Baird designed the bar program and hired Aaron Thebault as Zeppelin’s executive chef. Thebault relocated from Chicago, where he worked in the stellar kitchens of MK, Spiaggia, and Girl and The Goat. He has created a menu that matches Baird’s “delicious not precious” vision for the restaurant: an array of savvy but approachable plates to accompany fine drinks.Try the Zeppelin Old Fashioned, made more luscious with brown butter-washed Dickel 12. Hoodoo chicory liqueur imbues it with earthy spice. Gold Rush is a chill stir of Dickel rye, pear, lemon, ginger-turmeric honey and absinthe; the rim sparkles with edible gold flake. Both are smooth sips, enjoyed on their own, or with a nosh of grilled olives, or chicken salt fries. There’s a tight but smart roster of wines by the glass; we recommend the Justin Girardin, a French white burgundy. It pairs beautifully with the mussels, steamed in a robust white wine-miso broth. The broth, enhanced with grilled scallions and Fresno chilis, is sumptuous. You’ll use every bit of grilled sourdough to sop it up.
Thebault’s menu offers other classics that he’s made his own, such as the chilled plump shrimp with angostura cocktail sauce and garlic aioli, or crab salad in endive topped with trout roe. “The menu is a collection of perfect meals that my team and I have experienced in years past, inspired not just by the food, but the experience and pairing that made that particular dish a memory,” says Thebault. That said, the menu is not static. While still available, order his Butter-braised Leeks on Toast, meltaway cuts of the allium planted in a slather of ricotta on sourdough. Not to be missed is a shareable plate of Thebault’s Sticky Ribs. Trimmed St. Louis style and sweetly smoked, they sport an addicting za’atar spice rub enhanced with fresh orange zest. A dollop of pickled red cabbage makes a nice counterpoint.
Thebault is stoked by new possibilities as spring comes into its full glory. “We will head to the markets and add a few fresh vegetable plates to pair with some of the heavier items. We will be adding a rotational market-fresh plate that will speak to the wonderful springtime selections that we have available. The changing of the seasons is always a very inspiring notion for a chef.”If you have an appetite for beef, there are three delectable options to satisfy: tartare, patty melt, and New York strip. Pickled mustard seeds and horseradish give the tartare punch. Placed on a round of rye, the burger is an umami bomb, cloaked in caramelized onions and the rich Gruyere-like cheese, Comte. The steak is succulent, finished in a red wine glace. Thebault plates it with petite gem salad dressed in lemon and olive oil.“We use a prime strip, local whenever possible,” the executive chef says. “It is simply seasoned with salt and pepper, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, then grilled. Most importantly, we let it rest prior to serving.”
The preparation attests to his culinary philosophy. “We are more focused on product and technique so that the food can stand out and not try to trick the guests,” he says. “It’s sort of an homage to a more scaled-down style of cooking.”Desserts demonstrate similar finesse. A petite triple-layer chocolate cake is piped with espresso buttercream and a pleasing jolt of lemon curd. There’s also a dreamy soft-serve vanilla ice cream, a compelling foil to your choice of grapefruit, meringue, and Campari or Tennessee praline, Dickel caramel, and shaved chocolate.It’s worth noting that while Zeppelin is housed within Marriott’s TownePlace Suites, it is not a part of the hotel. It has a separate street entrance. While it does draw guests staying in the suites, it has been designed with locals in mind. Like the airship for which it is named, Zeppelin provides a singular, exciting place above the fray.