1 of 2
Photos: STUART THURLKILL &DAN GOLDBERG PHOTOGRAPHY
2 of 2
Stuart Thurlkill
Mention The Resort at Paws Up to the initiated and you’ll be met with a knowing grin and stories for days—families who’ve touched down at the Montana mountain resort, just a quick 35 miles from the Missoula airport, to experience a cattle drive across the working cattle ranch’s 37,000 acres or who have taken to the trails on ATVs to experience the untouched beauty of the countryside that surrounds the shores of the Blackfoot River.
But there’s something extra magical about the Green O, Paws Up’s adults-only woodland retreat, that makes even the most excited guests speak in hushed, reverent tones. It’s a secret that no one wants to share for fear that they will spoil the intimacy. Nestled into a secluded woodscape on the southern edge of Paws Up, with peekaboo views of the Bob Marshall Wilderness, Swan Mountain Range, and Garnet Mountain Range, sits The Green O.
This enclave of 12 hillside homes is a luxurious-yet-rustic retreat created with couples in mind. Jaw-dropping in its design, yet simplistic at its core, this chic escape boasts fireplaces, soaking tubs, and outdoor hot tubs, making this the perfect place for a romantic getaway no matter the season. Not to mention, each is equipped with two mountain bikes and access to your own hybrid Lexus SUV for tooling around the property.
Life at the Green O revolves around the Social Haus. Here, guests can check in and out, pick up their Lexus, tuck in for a drink, or dine throughout the day. Gleaming with the same minimalist-meets-rustic elegance found in each of the hauses, the Social Haus has two focal points: an enormous, round fireplace serves as the centerpiece for most of the dining tables. A horseshoe-shaped booth surrounds the crackling fire, creating an extra layer of coziness to a space filled with warm wood and natural tones. The bar wraps around the open kitchen where Executive Chef Brandon Cunningham and his team create exquisite dishes. It’s cooking as theater in the best and most exhilarating way possible.
Cunningham’s culinary skills are a pillar of the resort experience. Much like the Social Haus itself, Cunningham’s dishes are a through line for the guests who come and go from The Green O. Mention the resort and his name is the first to come up—and with good reason. The Portland, Oregon reared chef trained with greats like live fire legend Jason French and pasta guru Matt Sigler at Renata. This diverse background makes Cunningham the perfect match for an intimate setting like the Social Haus. Capable and confident, his dishes include eclectic lunch options—his crispy Vietnamese crepes with Dungeness Crab, nuoc cham, butter lettuce, and herbs are somehow delicate and satisfying all at once, while his smash burger with haus-ground Wagyu beef, griddled onions, pepper jack cheese, and secret sauce should win every burger award ever—and perfectly proportioned bar snacks (if the sour cream and onion chips with crème fresh and caviar are on the menu, run don’t walk).
But dinner is when Chef Brandon truly gets to shine. Each night he creates a new eight-course tasting menu. Diners will marvel as each dish comes out bursting with flavors more impressive than the last. Crudité, seafood, pasta, meat, and more...each earns the rank of high art in Cunningham’s hands. Count on two dessert courses and the occasional extra sweet treat to top it all off. And if you’re still hungry, order one of Chef ’s famous stone fired pizzas to take back to your haus. It’s a perfect snack to enjoy after a dip in the hot tub or while staring up at the endless stars overhead.
Tucked into the trees are the Green O’s 12 guest hauses, and though these stunning bungalows are all within easy walking distance of one another (and the Social Haus), they feel like they’re miles away from the outside world. Intimate and in tune with nature, each offers up a unique experience. But don’t be fooled by the rugged expanse surrounding them: these lodgings are pure luxury. Each of the four styles of haus brings its own unique charm: The Round Haus has curved, floor- to-ceiling windows that offer 180-degree panoramic views and a decadent sunken living room perfect for cuddling up on a cold winter’s night; the Green Haus exemplifies indoor/outdoor living with a deck that clocks more square footage than its interior space (a glass encased living room that showcases stunning forest views), and a pitched ceiling and expansive skylight over the bed; The Light Haus is glamping at its finest, with a unique glass bump-out design and skylights to give its inhabitants views from every angle; and then there’s the Tree Haus. Sitting 23 feet above ground, these multi-story units are the sort of space kids dream of growing up to stay in. A glass- encased spiral staircase takes you to your bedroom where unparalleled forest views await. In fact, the entire space boasts soaring floor-to-ceiling windows that make guests feel like they are truly living their best Montana life.
Some of the most beautiful moments guests will spend in their haus happen when they wake. A box filled with their favorite coffee order and sweet and savory pastries (dietary needs can be accommodated) arrives silently at their door, just waiting to be opened and enjoyed. Pour a cup of piping hot java and make your way to the deck for a morning moment of Zen amongst the trees. It’s a picture-perfect way to start the day.
Beyond the hauses, there’s a great big world to explore, so hop in your Lexus (or a private, chauffeured shuttle) and head to the Wilderness Outpost at Paws Up to check in for one of the resort’s many activities. If you feel the need for speed, join an ATV tour and get the lay of the land. Cruising through the pastures of Paws Up you’ll see the ranch’s majestic herd of bison grazing their way across the fields. Hold on tight as you make your way up to the ridge for incredible views of the valley, and soar down to the Blackfoot River for some of the most tranquil and scenic moments of your trip.
If those views of the river call to you (as they did Brad Pitt in the movie A River Runs Through It—filmed on this very waterway), schedule some time to get out on the water. Whether you fancy yourself an angler or not, a half-day of fly fishing is an exhilarating way to feel one with the river. Skilled guides will teach you the ropes and help you to catch (and release) the area’s underwater bounty. And be sure to take in the breathtaking views as you float down the Blackfoot—hitting the occasional rapids to keep you on your toes. Looking to experience Montana like a true cowboy? The resort has plenty of options—from trail rides with expansive views of Big Sky country to cattle drives where guests actually get in on the action as they help to move the resident herd across the ranch.
If all that activity has your body begging for some R&R, head to Spa Town, a collection of tents stitched together by an ambling boardwalk where guests of both Paws Up and The Green O can enjoy massages, mud wraps, and more. And proving that this resort is as luxurious as it is outdoorsy, Buti, Hatha, and Vinyãsa yoga and Glide Barre classes are offered to keep you feeling fit and ready for another day on the ranch.
At the end of the day, return to your haus for a bit of serenity under the stars. Pour a glass of wine and sit out on your deck under a blanket of stars. Listen as the crickets chirp, the deer rustle between the trees, and an owl hoots on high. And before you tuck in for the night, stare up at the big sky above you and marvel at its boundless beauty. (thegreeno.com; pawsup.com)
The Best of Both Worlds
Traveling with the comforts of home is the best way to travel, so if you’re thinking about making the trek to Montana but are worried about leaving Music City behind, this is the trip for you: The Resort at Paws Up’s Nashtana event offers up all the fun of a weekend at the resort with food and performances from some of your hometown faves.
Acclaimed singer/songwriters Jessi Alexander (“I Drive Your Truck,” “The Climb”) and Jon Randall (“Tin Man,” “Whiskey Lullaby”) will not only be at the resort to perform—they’ll be there to enjoy themselves. That means you could wind up on an ATV tour with an award-winning artist. And to bring a bit of Southern flavor, pit master Carey Bringle (Peg Leg Porker, Bringle’s Smoking Oasis) will be in the kitchen cooking up Nashville-inspired dishes. For Bringle, the chance to return to Paws Up after a short visit was an opportunity he couldn’t pass up.
“I had cooked at Paws Up before at the request of owner Larry Pipson. I loved the staff and the vibe. It is a wonderful place. I definitely wanted to get back there and take my wife with me this time,” Bringle says. “When their event director contacted me for this event, it was a no brainer.”
Though Bringle hasn’t planned his menu just yet, guests can expect to see both his firey cooking skills and his spitfire personality on display. “Usually on a weekend like this I will cook two to three times and spend some time interacting with the guests,” Bringle says. “With me, diners can always expect a good time with candid conversation. I am very open with my opinions and my cooking, and I love interacting with all kinds of people. You can learn something from everyone, and sometimes I learn a great deal from the people for whom I cook.”
One thing Bringle knows for sure: Montana and Nashville have plenty in common. “The people are similar,” he says. “We embrace the freedom of the outdoors and wide-open spaces. It is that feel and spirit that attract me to this resort.”