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In 1999, restaurateur Keith McNally opened Pastis in New York City’s Meatpacking District, and his gorgeous Parisian-styled brasserie within an industrial neighborhood captured the dining public. His vision tapped into a desire beyond nourishment, comfort, connection, or adventure that draws us out to eat: escapism. We relish being transported to and immersed in another place, another time. Indeed, Pastis has the look, feel, and flavor of the kind of dining establishment you’d find on Paris’ Boulevard Saint-Germain. Or, that you’d imagine you’d find there. Pastis possesses elements that feel timeless, and almost mythical.
These days, you don’t have to travel so far: McNally and partner Stephen Starr chose to bring the Pastis experience to Nashville’s historic May Hosiery Mills complex in Wedgewood Houston.
You can’t miss the red awning or the iconic sign, and you feel the excitement as you cross the mosaic-tiled threshold. Inside, the stage is fully set: a curved zinc bar backed by up-lit glass shelves and leaded glass cabinetry, white subway-tiled walls adorned with mottled mirrors, milk glass globe lights suspended from the pressed tin ceiling, a stagger of antique tables and bentwood chairs, and the sweep of rich red leather banquettes. Bienvenue à Pastis!
Settle in and take in your surroundings. At one table, a couple shares plates of cheeses, breads, pâté de Campagne, and a bottle of Pinot Blanc. At a six-top, a group utters oohs and ahs as their server presents stunning entrees: crusted rounds of Chicken Kiev with whipped potato purée and Trout Amandine planked over haricots verts. The bar is shoulder to shoulder; folks imbibing bubbly and spritzes while noshing on raw bar delights: oysters mignonette and scallops crudo. A bustling energy runs through the place, convivial and clamorous, but you can still hear the likes of Aretha and Neil Young (a late 60s-early 70s playlist!) over the sound system.
Check out the roster of house cocktails. A crisp, complex quaff, Le Jardin combines Hendrick’s gin with apricot brandy, lemon, tonic, and fresh thyme. The popular Le Petite Pickle makes a terrific start. This small but mighty vodka martini has a sweet briny edge and arrives garnished with a cornichon. You can also order the namesake — Pastis is an anise-flavored aperitif — often served diluted in water, creating a cloudy effect. From the non-alcoholic selection: Lyre’s Amalfi Spritz is delightfully bitter. The dedicated French wine list offers your choice of by the glass, carafe, or bottle.
The menu is not so large as to be confounding but offers a compelling array of definitive French dishes. A few hors d’oeuvres highlights: Leeks Vinaigrette features the poached, chilled alliums bathed in herbal dressing and sprinkled with toasted almonds. Resembling glassine flowers on the plate, fried artichokes are delectable swiped into the garlic aioli. The platter of Foie Gras Parfait includes an indulgent amount of silken foie, accompanied by brioche toast points and stone fruit compote. Tomatoes get special treatment in a tart, baked with goat cheese and balsamic. Regardless of what you order, you’ll receive a complimentary basket of house-baked bread (slices of baguette and rustic sourdough) and butter.
Frites! It wouldn’t be a French brasserie without hot, crispy fries, whether enjoyed solo with aioli or mounded on a platter with grilled steak (a choice of three different cuts: hanger, fillet, strip) or roasted lobster, or as a side to the bowl of mussels simmered in garlic white wine broth. (Word: save some of your bread to sop up that savory broth.)
The menu is peppered with seafood offerings. The preparation of salmon is flawless, the cut pan-seared, creating a crispy browned skin and fork-tender fillet. It is finished, nestled in a bowl with favas, spring peas, and tendrils in a sumptuous beurre blanc sauce. It’s worth noting that Pastis has assembled rotating specials under the heading Plat du Jour — Plate of the Day. On Mondays, look for the Dorade Royale, sea bream cooked in parchment, amplifying flavor and moisture. Wednesdays are devoted to Dover Sole Meunière, a straightforward yet spectacular dish where the delicate fillets, dredged in flour, are sautéed in brown butter and lemon.
Soup, salads, and a selection of sandwiches feature in the offerings as well. There are few places where you can relish the griddled ham-and-cheese wonders that are the Croque Monsieur or Croque Madame (egg on top!). The steak sandwich, complete with grilled onions, Gruyère, and a slather of aioli, has become a signature staple.
Desserts are just what you’d hope for — French classics done well: a vanilla bean-flecked creme brûlée encased in a wonderful, caramelized crackle. Dark chocolate mousse piped into a footed glass dish, capped with a bittersweet chocolate leaf. Profiteroles, cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream, garnished at the table — your server giving a generous pour of chocolate ganache over the stack.
Ooh-la-la. From spritzes to sweets, to seafood, steak, and frites: Pastis beckons. Escape to this casual yet elegant spot to feel the French connection.