Heather Hauser
Known as an epicenter for Zinfandel wines, Lodi, California, is home to 85 wineries, several of which are multigenerational with vineyards that date back 100 years or more.
Set just west of San Francisco Bay near the Sierra Nevada Mountains, Lodi has a Mediterranean-like climate that works well for the varietal, which is one of the oldest grown in California. The term “old vine” is not regulated, meaning that just because it’s listed on the label, the actual age of the vines may or may not influence what’s in your glass. Still, some producers are upfront about the age of their vines, including the four we chose to highlight here. In the bottle, these are big, bold wines full of warming spices on the palate—perfect for a midwinter’s night.
1) Oak Farm Vineyards 2017 Zinfandel
Set on a former cattle ranch, Oak Farm is now owned by Dan and Heather Panella. A Colonial home built in 1876 still stands on the property and the Panellas planted vines around it in 2012. For their 2017 Zinfandel, they use grapes from their own estate and also source from the Hohenrieder vineyard, planted in 1958. You’ll get a smoky, woodsy aroma up front and a wine full of dark fruit with a solid, structured finish. ($25; oakfarmvineyards.com)
2) Klinker Brick Old Ghost 2016 Old Vine Zinfandel
For a classic, and top-notch expression Lodi Zinfandel, look for Old Ghost from the Klinker Brick Winery. Sourced from a 103-year old vineyard, on vines planted in 1916, this true old vine Zin is oak-aged for 18 months. With warming notes of clove and tobacco on the nose, it opens up to reveal a well-balanced, rich, sultry, and plummy palate. ($37; klinkerbrickwinery.com)
3) Ironstone Vineyards Old Vines Zinfandel Reserve, 2016
A fourth-generation farming family, the Kautzes established their first winery in 1968 and now have more 5,000 acres. The Ironstone Old Vines Zinfandel Reserve is a blend of grapes (including about 10 percent petit syrah) from five different vineyards, all with vines aged between 60 and 80 years old. Its aroma is bright and full of berries and chocolate and, once it’s opened up a bit, is a light, expressive drink with good tannic structure. ($24.99; ironstonevineyards.com)
4) Mettler Family Vineyards Old Vine Zinfandel “Epicenter,” 2016
Although they don’t list the specific age of their Zinfandel vines, the Mettler family is one of the oldest in the region, having grown grapes in Lodi since the late 1800s. It’s a sixth-generation farming family and their 2016 Epicenter is the biggest, boldest of this group—so give it time to breathe in the glass. Once it’s opened up, there’s dark fruit and plum on the nose and a mouthful of blackberry jam and oaky tannins that linger long after you sip. ($24.99; mettlerwine.com)