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Lona
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Lona
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Lona
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Lona
Renowned Chef Richard Sandoval, collaborating with friend and colleague Chef Pablo Salas, has introduced his style of elevated, approachable Mexican cuisine to the lower level of the Noelle boutique hotel. Called Lona, it’s a dramatic and welcome departure from what preceded.
First opened as an American craft tavern, Makeready Libations + Liberation was designed in monochromatic print tones, an homage to the original nature of its neighbor, historic Printers Alley. Now, at Lona, (Spanish for canvas), chefs Sandoval and Salas have envisioned a new work using the vibrant colors and flavors of Mexico. Here, you can escape the bustle of downtown Nashville and take in the vibes of this artful, modern cantina — along with its array of upscale tacos, tostados, tequilas (85 kinds!), and more.
Splashes of turquoise and terracotta dominate the decor. Brilliant, embroidered pillows pop against earth-toned banquettes. Assorted cacti and succulents line the windows. Across one large wall is a stunner of a mural, “Blooming Mercedes,” by neo-figurative artist Ruben Ubiera. Symbolizing elements of Mexico and Tennessee, a woman wears our state flower, the iris, as part of her traditional headdress; featured also is our state bird, the mockingbird perched on a flowering branch.
A hallmark of the C.I.A.-trained chef, who has introduced Latin American cuisines to places as far flung as Dubai, is his marriage of heritage and technique, enlivening the foods that he loved to eat growing up in Mexico City. Sandoval credits his abuela — his grandmother — for informing his palate and teaching him. Her recipes, he notes, “remind me that the soul of a dish comes from patience and care.” Further, he’s asked chef Salas for his input. The collaboration manifests, for instance, in the Enchiladas Poblanos. Salas uses an earthy piquant mole to blanket the chicken-filled enchiladas and adds a striping of crema to bring a cooling contrast to the dish.
There’s much to consider, as you nosh on house chips and salsa, and peruse the menu. Start with one of the well-balanced cocktails. At the top of that list is Passion Picante, a heady margarita variation of Blanco tequila, mezcal — for a hint of smokiness — Cointreau, passion fruit, and a hit of Morita chile spice. The Paloma Brava makes a terrific citric refresher, combining grapefruit-infused tequila, agave, lime, and grapefruit juices, with soda for effervescence.
A good portion of the menu is seafood driven; Sandoval’s father was a restaurateur in the coastal city, Acapulco. Lump crabmeat embellishing the guacamole is a crowd-pleasing appetizer. The Tuna Tostada is beautifully executed: small, diced fish tossed in matcha salsa and lime, spooned onto a slather of sun-dried chile mayo on crisp tortilla. Thin discs of radish and serrano chiles add a fresh, distinctive bite. From the roster of tacos, the Bajastyle fish can’t be beat. Cuts of mahi-mahi are beer-battered and fried to a satisfying crunch, nestled in a trio of corn tortillas (you may request flour, if you prefer), each crowned with slaw dressed in chipotle aioli. Filled with butter-poached lobster meat, red onion, and cilantro in chili-spiked crema, the Lobster Quesadilla is a temptation for another visit.
Chef Salas’ line-up of fajitas is compelling, with choices of chicken, shrimp, veggie, or skirt steak. Served on a ripping-hot cast-iron platter, the steak is exceptional. Strips of beef are seared to tenderness and placed over a bed of charred julienned peppers and onions. Accompanying are side bowls of guacamole, sour cream, and pico de gallo, and a basket of warm flour tortillas.
Don’t pass over the Lona chopped salad; it’s one of the most delicious iterations of this classic you’ll ever eat. Deftly assembled over mixed lettuces are lines of ripe cherry tomato halves, roasted corn kernels, crispy bacon, and crumbled queso fresco crossed in cilantro-ranch dressing. You’ll also appreciate the assertive flavors of the Esquites: Mexican-style street corn folded with lime, mayo, queso fresco, and finely ground chiles. It’s an excellent side dish.
Desserts follow a similar line of uplifted classics. The popular cinnamon sugar-dusted churros come with two dipping sauces: silken Abuelita Mexican Chocolate and cajeta, tangy caramel made with sweetened goat’s milk. Mascarpone increases the richness of the Tres Leches Cake, decorated with assorted berries and complemented by a scoop of passion fruit ice cream. And Lona’s El Jefe Mexican Espresso Martini — a chill meld of tequila, coffee liqueur, cinnamon, and freshly brewed espresso — is like a dessert in a coupe.
Sandoval sums up the cooking philosophy that he shares with Salas: “Whether we’re creating a traditional dish or a modern interpretation, we never cut corners,” he says. “My early experience taught me that great food is about honoring where you come from, and what you put in the pan.”