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Tropical flavors align with tropical vibes at one of Nashville’s latest and greatest eateries, The Hart.
Located inside the boutique apartment- style hotel, BentoLiving Chestnut Hill, partners Rick Margaritov and Ryan Costanza are serving a brilliant array of Hawaiian inspired cocktails and plates. Modern and breezy, the restaurant is situated at the intersection of Hart Street and 4th, with glass walls that open up to a dining terrace. Guests can find inside seating at the central wrap-around bar, intimate two-tops, or communal tables. The lush plant foliage lining a platform stage (also used for live music) above the bar contributes beauty and health to the green space. It’s a savvy oasis, where Costanza’s food and Margaritov’s hospitality treat you to a taste of the Aloha State.
Friends for over a decade, the partners come with impressive resumes. Margaritov, an MBA graduate of Vanderbilt’s Owen School of Business Management, has clocked in 20 years in hospitality. He’s worked with such luminaries as Thomas Keller, Tom Collichio, Suzanne Goin, and Caroline Styne in their service and beverage programs. A New Yorker who grew up working in his family’s pizzerias, Costanza expanded his culinary passion widely, cooking in Japan, Korea, Mexico, and Bali. He worked for Dominique Crenn, as director of operations for her 3-star Michelin restaurant group. He consulted and opened restaurants as far flung as Singapore and San Diego, garnering acclaim in the latter for Dija Mare.
Margaritov and Costanza had been scouting a location in our Chestnut Hill neighborhood for their sake brewery, Pure Land Sake, when they met the BentoLiving developers. Months later, they were brought on to oversee all of the food and beverage concepts inside the hotel. Whether it’s breakfast or lunch, weekend brunch, light bites, or full-on dinner, you’ll find something delectable and a bit different. Costanza calls the concept Hawaiian izakaya—The Hart embodies that convivial Japanese pub ambiance, with a menu that takes its flavor cues from the Pacific Rim. Impressed by Tennessee agriculture, Costanza incorporates locally-sourced ingredients into the fare. He’s divided the menu into these categories: snacks, salads, raw, plates, and binchotan ( Japanese charcoal grill.)
“When you think about what a true izakaya is, it’s not far off from an old Nashville vibe,” says Costanza. “Think Dino’s, except replace the food with some yakitori and fried pork and make the vibe a bit more minimal and quieter.”
Of course, they’ve curated a premier roster of sakes, (all served “white wine cold”) and are happy to introduce you to the rice-based spirits. Cocktail offerings complement the fare as well. Secret Garden is a cool, herbal quaff of elderflower liqueur, gin, lime, and fresh basil. Savor it with a bowl of warm Togarashi-spiked edamame or Furikaki fries. Sundays Japanese Whiskey Highball, a tall drink brightened with Fever-Tree tonic, tastes crisp and refreshing. For something headier, try The Hart’s Old Fashioned, distinctive with
its shiitake-infused bourbon. Pair it with skewers of oyster mushrooms, prepared on the Japanese charcoal grill. In fact, anything from the Binchotan is superb. Just a few of the many delectable offerings include: Charred sweet potatoes spooned with yuzu crema and strewn with bonito flakes; King Salmon, a meltaway plank under crispy skin, served with sweet hakurei turnips in sticky rice; Glazed Coconut chicken sidled by Maui onion and macadamia pesto; and Teriyaki ribeye with pineapple and wasabi cream. Pro tip: order several plates to share. And from the Plates section, Margaritov likes to steer his guests to the Pork Katsu. Made from koji-marinated pork shoulder, the tender cutlet is encased in toothsome crunch.
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“Ryan has really perfected the panko coating,” Margaritov says. It’s good to balance your choices with some cold plates. Miso Caesar is a clever melange of gem lettuces dressed with strips of toasted nori. Cold Ramen Noodles has a base of Hawaiian broth, saimin, drenching springy pasta, and is laced with Broadbent ham, crab, sugar snaps, enoki mushrooms, radish, and cucumber, with the house x.o. sauce on the side. (This also makes a marvelous summer meal in and of itself.)
Brunch has its own set of delights. Expect pristine poke bowls and a selection of tropical fruits. Smoked Salmon toast is as scrumptious as it is Instagrammable. For big appetites, we recommend the Wagyu Brisket Loco Moco, tender full-flavored beef cloaked in Maitake mushroom gravy over rice, a sunny egg capping the umami- laden lot. Want something for your sweet tooth? The freshly baked banana bread chunked with dark chocolate and topped with caramel cream is special. The recipe was developed by Margaritov’s wife, Tanya, who also prepares it.
“I’m trying to transport people,” says Costanza. “I want people to think, ‘I could’ve had this same meal at a really nice restaurant in Hawaii.’” (321 Hart St., 629-231-4006; thehartrestaurant.com)