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Envie. In Cajun patois, that’s the word used to describe a desire that’s more than a craving: it’s a powerful hankering, as in “I got an envie for a bowl of ya mama’s gumbo.”
Good thing, if you’re driven by such a force for bona fide Louisiana cooking, you have no further to go than Spicy Boy’s in East Nashville.
Opened mere months ago in a little stone cottage on McFerrin Street, Spicy Boy’s is the creation of Justen Gardner Cheney. The restaurant is in good company, just a stone’s throw from Mas Tacos Por Favor and The Pharmacy. Born in Baton Rouge, Cheney grew up in a family embracing Cajun ways.
“We all cooked a lot. Eating, drinking, playing music, and watching Louisiana football: that’s how we have a good time,” Cheney says.
After years of cooking away from home, Cheney felt drawn back to his culinary roots. At Spicy Boy’s, you get the benefit of that irresistible pull. Cheney’s serving up some righteous good Cajun food: boudin and andouille sausages (both made in house) roux-rich gumbo, Natchitoches meat pies, fried shrimp and catfish platters, and all manner of Po Boys, layered on Leidenheimer French bread— a hallmark of the Big Easy.
Cheney has converted the house into a casual restaurant and bar. In the front room, where you immediately take in the compelling aromas of onions, peppers, and toasty roux, is the order counter. Study the menu hanging above the counter window and tell Justen what you want. Then, sit wherever you’d like. There are booths in the main room, or head to the back of the house for the long bar, additional cafe tables, and the outdoor dining terrace.
A cup of chicken-andouille sausage gumbo is a must-have. One spoonful of the glossy brown broth reveals deep, complex flavors. Capped with the customary dollop of rice and sliced scallions, the gumbo is packed with tender pulls of chicken, cuts of sweet-hot sausage, and the Cajun trinity. Boudin, made with different cuts of pork and dirty rice, is a Cajun staple and unlike any sausage you’ve ever had. Cheney serves his with a side of coarse grain mustard that he makes with Abita beer. The mustard is a terrific condiment that complements the boudin’s robust taste.
And the menu is filled with plenty of tempting Po Boys. When you order a Bennie and Clovis, you are dining on a bit of New Orleans food history. During the streetcar labor dispute of 1929, restaurateurs Bennie and Clovis Martin decided to feed the striking workers. They split French bread loaves in half, slathered the sides with mayo, and filled them with roast beef “debris” (bits of fall- apart meat in gravy), fries, shredded lettuce, tomato, and pickles. It sustained the unemployed workers and became known as the Poor Boy sandwich—a NOLA icon. Cheney’s Po Boys follow suit: they are delicious and will sustain you.
When it comes to battered-and-fried, Cheney has a deft touch. For his fried shrimp platter, he dusts a mess of Gulf shrimp in seasoned cornmeal, and cooks them to a light, golden crisp. He includes a slice of lemon and a cup of cocktail sauce for dipping. We recommend a few dashes of Crystal— it’s perfection. The platter comes with your choice of two sides—be sure to make the Cole Slaw in comeback sauce one of them. Cheney has plans to offer a Blue Plate special during the week, and eventually, weekend brunch. You can count on crawfish every Sunday.
“I’m trying to emulate the classics I grew up on,” Cheney says. “Most important, Spicy Boy’s is a place to gather for great food, drink and Louisiana football.”
(924 McFerrin Ave., Tues. – Sun., 11 a.m. – midnight, 615-915-4932; spicyboysnashville.com)