Michael D. Tedesco
Kamal Kalokoh and Rashean Conaway
Drawing on the cuisines of the Caribbean, chef Kamal Kalokoh takes you island-hopping at his new restaurant at Riddim n’ Spice—from Cuba to Jamaica to Puerto Rico to Haiti to the Republic of Trinidad and Tobago. Patterned after his food truck by the same name, the fast-casual eatery opened recently in North Nashville, near Meharry Medical College.
Chef Kalokoh is following the career path of his mother, Ouida Bradshaw. Originally from Jamaica, she came to the States in 1999. By 2003, she began catering, cooking the foods of her homeland, which led to her opening Jamaicaway, a long-standing, popular restaurant inside the Market House at the Nashville Farmers’ Market. Kalokoh came up in his mother’s business and set out on his own as a caterer in 2011. That led to plum positions, such as Rihanna’s personal chef and Drake’s touring chef. In 2014, he launched Riddim n’ Spice food truck while seeking a restaurant site. He partnered with his brother, Rashean Conaway, who has become the company’s business manager, and at last settled into their brick-and-mortar location this fall.
Color and sound infuse the eatery with an upbeat feel. Brush strokes of deep turquoise, aqua, tangerine, and peach are set against a wall of white, mimicking a Caribbean sunrise. Happy rhythms of reggae play over the sound system.
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Michael D. Tedesco
Island Bowl with Spicy Honey Jerk Chicken
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Michael D. Tedesco
Walk up to the counter to place your order. The menu is divided into two parts: Island Bowls and Jerk Chicken Plates. The bowls, the staff explain, are made to your specs, “kind of like at Chipotle.” Choose your base from five kinds of rice (or a grain-free version with mixed lettuces) and build your bowl with a protein from the selection of jerk chicken styles, pollo guisado, smoked lamb, barbecued jackfruit, or spiced seitan strips. (Word: The Trini fried rice and smoked lamb are super-licious.) Complete your bowl with four more items from the list of toppings, which include corn salsa, caramelized onions, queso fresco, sweet and tangy peppers, diced romas, and Cuban black beans.
The jerk chicken is available in white or dark quarters, half chicken or whole, and at varying levels of piquancy. The chicken has been thoroughly spice-rubbed and has a luscious smoky taste. The glazy finishing sauces amp up the heat. Plates come with a choice of two sides, such as fried plantains, tostones, Bajan macaroni pie, cucumber-mango salad, and choice of rice. The Bajan macaroni pie is laced with bits of peppers that impart a compelling heat through the creamy cheese sauce. It might just be your new favorite version of mac-and-cheese. Temper the heat with an order of cucumber-mango salad, refreshing in its marinade of sweet-sour vinaigrette.
On the counter, dispensers of fresh fruit and pressed sugarcane drinks churn. Go for the pineapple-ginger for its balance of sweet tropical juice and ginger-y heat.
Michael D. Tedesco
Plantain Puffs
And, remember Kalokoh’s saying, “You can’t have the riddim without a little spice.”
Riddim n' Spice, 2116 Meharry Blvd., 615-357-7006; riddimnspice.com