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There is a fine art to making Chinese dumplings — from the creation of thin, tender rounds of dough to their flavor-packed fillings, to the deft fold-and-pleat, sealing up the tasty packages.
Whether steamed, boiled, or pan-seared, when masterfully prepared, dumplings provide soulful dining satisfaction.
To find that ideal bite, look no further than Mama Yang and Daughter, which recently opened in Germantown, next to O-Ku. For the past five years, those in the know have purchased these delectable crescents at area farmers' markets. Now, you can get them six days a week at the restaurant, either freshly steamed to enjoy on-site or packed frozen to prepare at home. Grace Tseng, who is the daughter component of the duo, was born in Taiwan and grew up eating these delicious treats. (She and her family moved to Tennessee when she was 14.) She had no doubt that her mother — aka Mama Yang — made the best she’d ever had. In creating Mama Yang and Daughter, Tseng not only wants to share Taiwanese culture and cuisine, but she also wants to showcase her mother’s formidable culinary prowess.
“My mom grew up in the countryside in Taiwan; her parents — my grandparents — were farmers,” Tseng says. “She has been in the kitchen, preparing meals for the family, since she was 13 years old. She never had culinary training, but she is a natural. Over time, she developed strong culinary skills and a fine palate. Her love of cooking for her family is such a part of her, and that is what makes her food exceptional.”
Tseng’s mother, who prefers to be known as Mama Yang, or simply Mama, is modest about her skills and steadfast in her dedication. No corners cut. All of the recipes are her originals. Consistently offered are three kinds of dumplings: Pork-Cabbage, Chicken-Mushroom, and Veggie.
Also on the menu is her wonton soup, the lush pork bone broth bobbing with delicate, hand-folded wontons; steamed pork bao; edamame; and a cucumber salad marinated in a garlicky, sweet-sour vinaigrette. Plus, Mama’s own specialty dipping sauce.
Place your order at the counter and take a seat. Allow about 15 minutes for the dumplings to be properly cooked. Relax, sip some hot tea, and take in the space. Tseng brought in snake plants for purity and money tree plants for prosperity. On the counter, you’ll notice a statue of a happy Buddha, strewn with good-luck coins, which originally belonged to Tseng’s grandfather, brought into the shop for success and abundance.
“Her love of cooking for her family is such a part of her, and that is what makes her food exceptional.”
Here’s what you’ll discover when you eat a Mama Yang pork and cabbage dumpling. First of all, it arrives fragrant and perfectly steamed, prepared in the baskets that Mama brought over from Taiwan. (She believes them to be superior.) Take a bite: The dough is not doughy. Rather, it is ultra-thin, supple yet sturdy enough to encase its filling, and quite good on its own. Mama’s recipe uses both wheat and barley flour, which makes the difference. The mixture, generously seasoned with ginger, scallions, sesame oil, salt, soy, and white pepper, is succulent. The soy-based dipping sauce has a compelling vinegar tang.
“It’s critical to have the right ratio of lean and fat in order to make a juicy pork filling. We use bone-in butt,” Tseng says. “It is more work, but the result is worth it.”
The other dumplings are just as gratifying to eat. Button mushrooms and vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce bring a measure of umami to the chicken. Responding to vegan dietary needs, Mama created the veggie dumpling, combining carrots, corn, and Taiwanese cabbage spiked with ginger, salt, white pepper, sesame oil, and a pinch of sugar.
Beverage choices include an array of steeped, fruit, milk, matcha, and boba teas.
“Boba is originally from Taiwan, and you can find it everywhere you go there,” Tseng says. “Texture is important to me, and we imported a machine to make our tapioca pearls.”
Moving into the storefront has opened up possibilities that Tseng hadn’t considered. From 2010 to 2018, she taught Mandarin at Ensworth School. Now, she is excited to be bringing her instructive talents to Mama Yang and Daughter. With her mother at her side, she holds dumpling classes at the restaurant on select Mondays, when the restaurant is closed. Soon, she will offer boba tea classes. She is passionate about sharing aspects of her culture, and experiencing Taiwanese food has that soft power to make connections. It’s important to her that the love for these home delicacies is passed on. And she’s grateful to both parents for giving of themselves in this pursuit, marveling at how far a mother’s recipe has come in realizing a daughter’s dreams.