CHRISTEN CLEMINS
In August 2012, Lockeland Table Community Kitchen and Bar opened its doors, bringing new life to an historic commercial building in Lockeland Springs, and ushered a new era of service into the East Nashville neighborhood.
Executive chef Hal Holden-Bache and general manager Cara Graham were intentional when they teamed up to create the restaurant of their dreams. They wanted it to be more than a hospitable farm-to-table eatery. They wanted to honor the building’s history and pay homage to each previous owner. They wanted it to be a hub for good connections, a gathering place in the ‘hood for delicious food and drink, a respectful steward of the environment, and a contributor to the community’s greater good.
Without question, they achieved that dream. Within its first year of operations, Lockeland Table (LT) was nominated Best New Restaurant by the James Beard Foundation and won an architectural award from the Metro Historic Commission. (They faithfully restored the H.G. Hill grocery store facade.) They instituted the Community Hour, a better-than-happy hour held Monday – Saturday, 4 – 6 p.m., replete with discounted drinks and bites, a portion of which is donated to community PTOs. Daily, they serve anywhere from 140 to 250 covers, with tables making three solid turns.
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CHRISTEN CLEMINS
And now, a decade has passed. It’s given them pause, to reflect on their journey, which began nearby, at Eastland Cafe. Holden-Bache was in the kitchen, Graham in the dining room. Initially, they butted heads.
“We realized that we had the same intentions and the same work ethic. We both came to understand, from our experiences, that front of the house and back of the house forms a circle, rather than two opposing sides,” says Graham.
From that alignment, they forged a partnership and drew up a business plan, one that included purchasing a property. They searched all over the city. Little did they know that the space was close by, a structure that, over its lifetime, had housed a dry goods store, a grocery, a beauty salon, and in its last iteration, John Guider’s studio and art gallery. Graham worked with Pathways Lending and handled meeting with the bankers to secure the loan. They closed on the building in February 2012 and began the six-month renovation.
Community then, as now, was at the forefront. In fact, about 50 neighbors helped build an inner wall. “We opened August 11, leading up to the Tomato Art Fest weekend,” Graham says. “It was beautiful.” For Chef Hal, the birth of his first child and LT, only six weeks apart, are linked forever in his mind as a momentous turning point.
“I became a father and a restaurateur about the same time,” he recalls. “That made a profound impact. That our goals would focus on work/life balance, raising our families, and getting a little piece of pie. Thriving and giving back. To be a part of this community, to work hard so we can send our kids to college. To do my best, wherever I am.”
Graham agrees. “We both worked in enough other places to know what not to do. To have true success, you must have a cohesive team. We have been fortunate in that most of our staff has been with us for multiple years. The key is in our culture: providing a safe, fun, professional work environment. When I hire someone, I feel like I’m bringing on a new member of the family.”
CHRISTEN CLEMINS
An unforeseen benefit has been cultivating new relationships. Holden- Bache marvels at how buying produce from White Squirrel Farm has evolved into more than a business arrangement. “It took me a minute to learn how to use the farm,” he says. “We’ve grown together. I’ve learned how to shape my menu better, based on what the Winters family is growing. From that, a magnificent friendship has formed. It’s been a win all the way around.”
When Paul and Dorothy Craig of Summer Triangle Pottery were served special meals that the chef and his team prepared, while being mindful of their food allergies, the Craigs showed their appreciation with gifts of pottery. Over the years, Hal and Cara changed out all of their service ware with hand- crafted works by the clay artists. Graham shares another cherished example. “Liz (Endicott) came to me and said, ‘I want to learn everything I can from you.’ She was with us for six years, and then went on to open Lyra with her husband. I can’t tell you how that warms my heart. We are still in touch every week and help each other any way that we can. That’s the way it is supposed to be.”
Creativity and seasonality abound at LT, but there are some mainstays that will always be in the rotation. Staples include the empanadas, which Holden- Bache has been making since he was seventeen years old. He also relishes their Margherita pizza for its “beautiful simplicity.” The succulent, dry-aged strip steak, served with chimichurri sauce is a consistent best-seller. Summer produce inspires such favorites as the LT Wedge, made with fried green tomatoes, smoked blue cheese, dehydrated Tennshootoe ham, and the house red pepper jam. So, what do the partners think about the future, the next ten years?
After the turmoil of the pandemic and ensuing concerns with staffing and supply chain issues, Holden-Bache has a hard time going beyond the week-to-week vision. “It can consume you,” he says, “Steal your attention: what’s the curveball going to be today? Power outage? Product shortage? Employee not showing up?”
Graham adds, “Staffing has become a major issue. Here, we have a chef who loves to teach. We have a great opportunity for anyone dedicated to the craft who wants to learn. We have a culture of respect. We’ve been 90% trash-free since day one. During the pandemic, we kept our staff 100% paid. We got the sidewalk bill through. I am proud of those things.”
In a city still undergoing tremendous growth, with a steady influx of new-new- new, we toast the success of Lockeland Table, which has remained more than deliciously relevant. Holden-Bache and Graham have made it a vital part of the community. “It’s really about love,” says Graham. “That’s why I had the mural of the Phoenix out of the ashes painted on the side of our building. We all rise.”
By any measure, ten years in the life of a restaurant is a significant milestone, worthy of celebration. By today’s measure—which includes surviving a destructive tornado followed by a lengthy pandemic, that anniversary warrants dancing in the streets. To that end, Graham and Holden-Bache have planned a Block Party from Woodland to Holly Streets on S.16th to be held Sunday, August 14. Food, music, friends, community: what could be better?