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In the tumultuous year 1939, as our country strained from a decade of the Great Depression, these iconic works came into being: John Steinbeck published The Grapes of Wrath, Billie Holiday recorded “Strange Fruit,” Lou Gehrig made his farewell speech.
In Nashville, young Lynn Chandler struck a deal with the Elliston Pharmacy, and opened his now iconic Elliston Place Soda Shop.
Over its eight-decade span (the longest continuously operating restaurant in Nashville history), the soda shop had its share of tumult, changing ownership, struggling against the backdrop of a city in rapid growth, everyone drawn to the shiny and new. In 2019, it seemed destined to shutter forever.
But 2021 brings a new chapter for Elliston Place Soda Shop. Developer Tony Giarratana and his wife Lisa purchased the business and set out on a deliberate and thoughtful path to preserve this icon. They moved the shop next door into the circa 1907 Cumberland Telephone Exchange Building, which has over two times the space. They assembled a strong team to maintain the shop’s character and spirit. (Giarratana immediately hired Linda Melton, aka The Pie Lady, devoted EPSS employee since 1992.)
They saved and refurbished what they could while faithfully replicating the rest. The result is a retro feast for the eyes in gleaming chrome fixtures, black-and-white tile floors, milk glass lighting and candy apple red vinyl booths. The mini-jukeboxes mounted at each booth, reclaimed from the original store, still don’t spin those 45s, but a big Wurlitzer in the back is free to customers—play away. If you didn’t know, you’d be convinced that this is how it’s been all along.
In the process, the team made a few additions: A stage for live music; a full bar with boozy shakes; a separate to-go window; an awning-covered dining patio; a dedicated parking lot. Even with all the changes, combined with its stellar recreation, a soda shop is only as good as its fare. No worries. Shakes, floats, malts, sodas, and freezes are as rich and luscious as ever. Coke Float? Check. Strawberry Milkshake? Check. Chocolate Malted? Yes, ma’am. The Dreamsicle, vanilla ice cream spun with orange juice and sherbet, will tap into fond childhood memories. They’ve also brought back old-timey soda shop favorite, phosphates: ask for the Zinger to add a tart tang to your sweet drink.
From the savory side of the menu, you can count on all-day breakfast. (The buttermilk biscuits!) At lunch or dinner, a hand-pattied, griddled soda shop burger with a side of crinkle fries can’t be beat. Yes, you can get a soup and grilled cheese sandwich, a Soda Shop Salad loaded with ham, turkey bacon, and veggies, or a basket of fried green tomatoes. (Come summer, you’ll want a scoop of chicken salad on sliced market ripe red ones.)
Meat-n-Three plates satisfy big hungers. Pot roast, meat loaf, turkey-n- dressing, and fried chicken are mainstays (and that chicken is crisp, juicy, and just as delicious the next day cold from the fridge.) Look, too, for daily specials; Wednesday features fried pork chop, Fridays are all about catfish and hushpuppies. Sides are solid: squash casserole, mac and cheese, green beans, and turnip greens are all prepared in down-home delicious fashion.
Desserts are decadent. Your eyes will widen at the super-sized banana splits and hot fudge sundaes; ask for an extra spoon and share. However, you’ll want a slice of any of Miss Linda’s pies all for yourself. We’re partial to the coconut, with its meringue piled mile high.
What the Elliston Place Soda Shop does best is serve up a sweet dose of nostalgia—especially welcome in uncertain times. For longtime customers, it’s a dream come true; they can return to its warm embrace. For families, there’s gracious plenty to please parents and kiddos alike. And a new generation of diners will be introduced to the wonder of its of-a-time style, taste and hospitality.
(2105 Elliston Place, 615-327-1090; ellistonplacesodashop.com)