With its genius melding of Thai curries and Texas ‘cue, Curry Boys BBQ in East Nashville lives up to its tonguein-cheek slogan, “offering a flavor unexperienced by most but desired by all.”
That desired-by-all flavor originated in San Antonio during the pandemic, in part from boredom, in part curiosity, by Andrew Ho and Sean Wen of Pinch Boil House and Andrew Samia of South BBQ & Kitchen. Ho and Wen had garnered wide acclaim for their Viet-Cajun seafood dishes; Samia was revered as a f ine pitmaster. When Covid-19 forced the shutdown, Ho and Wen wearied of being idle. They reached out to Samia to see if they could do a pop-up together — they’d provide rice and fixin’s if he’d provide the meat.
They assembled bowls to grab-and-go: slices of richly smoked brisket over potatoes/onions/carrots bathed in green curry flanked by rice flecked with crispy shallots. The result — a case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts — was an unexpected, taste-sensation sell out.
After another pop-up triumph — proof this was no “one-off”— the trio expanded the concept from bowl to fast-casual restaurant: Curry Boys BBQ. First opened in October 2020, there are two in the San Antonio area. The ingenuity and hands-down deliciousness of the fare earned the trio the honor of semifinalist for James Beard Best Chef Texas in 2023 and 2024.
And now, we’re the lucky ones to have Curry Boys BBQ in Nashville.
The Boys found their way here via friend Adam Lathan of Double Wide Hospitality. If they were to open a Curry Boys outpost, they knew they wanted it in an East Nashville neighborhood, preferably in a little house. A tall order, until Lathan alerted them to the shuttering of lou in Riverside Village. It fit the bill.
Colorful, campy, kitschy: they’ve made the bungalow all their own. They’ve painted the exterior bright pink and red, (like the original, and in the culturally significant colors of Thailand), and they’ve continued that palette inside. They’ve decorated the place with fun retro treasures: spaghetti western posters (modified to promote Curry Boys) vintage kids’ toys like giddy-up pony sticks, Thai Barbie and Quick Draw McGraw; Wyatt Earp comics paper a bathroom wall. Tables and chairs are arranged throughout the house, and the covered dining deck out back is the perfect place for groups to gather.
Step up to the red-painted counter to place your order. Along with soft drinks and Thai lemonade, they’ve put together a “small but mighty” adult beverage program with beers, wines, and batched cocktails. Yep, their tart, spicy Thai lemonade gets spruced with vodka, and brown-liquor-lovers will approve of the Yuzu Whisky Sour.
The menu is concise but flavor-packed, and divided into Shareables, Bowls, and Sides. The popularity of the green curry queso is unsurprising: that creamy-tangy combo is terrific with chips, but go big and get the pulled pork nachos, drenched in the sauce. Other bites of note to balance the queso’s richness include smoked edamame and a vibrant salad of romaine, cabbage, and fresh herbs in a citrusy Thai vinaigrette.
The bowls are served with the same foundation of jasmine rice, potatoes, carrots, fried shallots, and cilantro, the protein and curry being the variables. (However, for an upcharge, you can order egg noodles instead of rice — something worth getting soon!) Of course, the original Brisket Smoke Show is a must. The tender slices of beef have the telltale ring and bark of a proper smoke, and the way the green curry marries with the smoked meat is a revelation. But don’t overlook the Good Luck Cluck, peppery sliced smoked chicken thigh in a mild yellow curry with all the trimmings. A nutlike Penang curry distinguishes the pulled pork bowl. If you’d like to increase the fire of any bowl, order the house chili crisp oil. Want a cooling factor? The house pickles will do the trick.
Vegetarians have a bowl too, featuring “magic” button mushrooms and green curry. Word: those mushrooms do possess a magical quality. Marinated in a piquant oil, they’re also delicious on their own.
There are a few side dishes that merit your attention: The creamed corn sings in its coconut-curry base. Cooling potato salad gets sparked with green curry. T he cold chili garlic noodles could readily become your summertime go-to.
There’s just one dessert, but it’s a winner! Ube cheesecake is made with the purple yam, indigenous to Southeast Asia, which imbues the creamy confection with its inherent sweetness and shock of color. Baked in small rounds and crowned with toasted coconut, it’s a beauty to behold and a delight to eat. (1304 McGavock Pk., 629-777-2745; curryboysbbq.com)