Nathan Zucker
Chef Julia Jaksic first introduced her all-day café concept in 2017, when she opened Café Roze in the Eastwood community.
In short order, it became a neighborhood gathering spot. Soon, she looked to expand her concept to another part of town. Late in 2019, Jaksic signed the lease for a former Subway spot in the Belle Meade Galleria, with the plan of opening the following spring. Permitting delays, contractor slowdowns, and ultimately COVID-19 would dictate otherwise. She pressed on, and opened the all-day restaurant and market in mid-November.
Unique to the area, Roze Pony has been quickly embraced on the West Side.
“My friend Libby Callaway describes Café Roze as your young hipster sister and Roze Pony as the savvy older one who spent time studying abroad,” Jaksic says, with a laugh. “I wanted this next place to be a little more upscale, while still retaining that casual vibe. To me, Café Roze is more akin to a bistro and Roze Pony a brasserie.”
Jaksic envisioned and designed the restaurant herself, with help from her friends. Walls are lime-washed grey, with a pale rose wall behind the centerpiece—an arched mirrored bar. A tiled floor in a striking pattern, also her design, is evocative of a Parisian eatery. A long-cushioned banquette with an array of tables anchors the left wall, while a coffee/pastry counter, market display, and stagger of high-tops are on the right. Sunlight floods the restaurant throughout the morning; as evening arrives, flickering votives dot the tables.
Like her hipster sister, Roze Pony follows the all-day model with a breakfast/lunch menu and separate dinner menu. There’s also a Pony menu for the kids. Pastry chef Emily Wilson creates a strong in-house baking program, which includes a daily assortment of goodies at the coffee bar: lavender-honey scones, English biscuits stuffed with cheese and tomato jam, miso-caramel rolls, caramelized onion-kale focaccia squares, PB&J cookies.
Get a latte and pastry to go, or take your time at a table, ordering from the menu Café Roze aficionados will recognize the Simple Breakfast, a favorite staple of eggs your way, seared tomato, bacon (or shiitakes), and toast.
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Nathan Zucker
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Nathan Zucker
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What to order:
- Souffle Pancakes, $16
- Beet-Cured Salmon on Rye, $15
- Squash and Chickpea Tagine, $18
- Duroc Pork Chop, $35
- Pretty Pony Cocktail, $13
There are many dishes distinct to Roze Pony. Beet-cured salmon on rye with juniper whipped cream cheese is a beauty, finished with house pickles and watermelon radishes. Baked eggs in a bowl with creamed kale, crumbled Pinewood sausage, and buttery croutons feels right for wintry mornings, hearty and comforting. And, not be missed are the ethereal—and decadent— souffle pancakes with blueberry syrup and powdered sugar. These are inspired by Jaksic’s many trips to Singapore, where such treats are everywhere.
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Nathan Zucker
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Nathan Zucker
At lunch, the Cobb Salad has become a firm favorite, and no wonder. Jaksic’s interpretation highlights Gifford’s bacon, Point Reyes blue cheese, cherry tomatoes, and her lush Miso Ranch dressing. The Parisian Ham Baguette embodies the simple pleasure of the classic Jambon-Beurre sandwich: the crusty bread is spread with good butter and coarse grain mustard, then piled with Emmental cheese, in-house cured ham, and cornichons. And, don’t miss the Pony Burger. It’s a messy-good stack of two Dijon-encrusted smash patties, melted cheddar, house pickles, and Roze’s own secret sauce on a soft bun. To be sure, it comes with a pile of thin, crisp frites Roze is known for. Indulge, and savor it with a big Cabernet.
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Nathan Zucker
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Nathan Zucker
Jaksic and team have assembled a terrific selection of wines by the bottle or glass. They’ve also created a roster of heady cocktails, such as the Sazerac-inspired Instructable Moment: made with Rittenhouse rye, brandy, and bitters, served neat with an Absinthe rinse. Pretty Pony lives up to its name: vodka shaken with strawberry and lemon juices, topped with rosé. Need to sip an icy Ford’s gin martini, nosh on crispy blue cheese stuffed olives, and abandon the cares of the day? This is your place.
The dinner menu—a concise roster of six starters, two salads, and eight mains—becomes available at 4 p.m.
“I wanted to offer some traditional brasserie dishes,” says Jaksic, “and we have two: the double Duroc pork chop and the bone-in strip steak, both dry-aged.”
And, both are succulent. The chop sits on a bed of roasted mushrooms and fingerling potatoes; the strip is plated with leafy salad, onion rings, and Roze steak sauce.
You’ll find a pasta—or two—to choose from; we’re partial to the Mafaldine—ribbons cloaked in lemony ricotta. Winter squashes, preserved lemon, chickpeas and quinoa tabbouleh comprise a piquant gluten and dairy-free tagine, which has proved to be a surprise hit.
Looking ahead, Jaksic plans to add family dinners to-go. Already, you can get loaves of bread, sauces, and salads (green goddess chicken!) from the Roze Pony market.
“We are listening and responding to our customers and their desires,” she says. “Being a part of a community and extending our brand of hospitality is at our heart.”
With its relaxed yet posh ambiance, attentive service, and delicious fare to accommodate a range of tastes, Roze Pony is on the path to becoming a West Side mainstay.
Roze Pony, Belle Meade Galleria, 5133 Harding Pike, 615-942-5057; rozepony.com