We’ve been astonished by our city’s nonstop growth and spate of newcomers to our dining scene. Moreover, we’ve been blown away by the irrepressible spirit of our long-standing chefs and restaurateurs who have dug in, gotten creative, and adapted so they can continue to serve delicious food and drink to us hungry diners. For this year’s Restaurant Issue, there are no bests. For anyone still in the business and doing the work, that’s a best, in and of itself. Salud!
We’ve looked back over the past year or two and assembled some favorites, including some satisfying sweets.
LOCUST
Shaved Japanese Ice
Learning to make Kakigōri, Japanese shaved ice treats, became Chef Trevor Moran’s obsession, which ultimately led him to create Locust, his little dumpling and shaved ice shop with the big reputation. The variations are endless, but consider feathery shaved and sculpted ice folded with passion fruit curd and white chocolate custard encased in a dark chocolate shell, or almond milk cream draped over shaved ice striped with warm salted caramel as two of our top contenders. (2305 12th Ave. S., 615-205-3737; locustnashville.com)
ETCH
Ice Cream Sundae
Deb Paquette found the ideal match in Megan Williams to serve as Etch pastry chef. Her desserts are consistently creative and stunning constructions that are pure pleasure to eat. You can count on her sundae in any iteration, but here’s one to give you pause: matcha ice cream with brown butter blondie bites, roasted white chocolate sesame crunch, toasted honey caramel, whipped cream, and sesame pizzelle. (303 Demonbreun St., 615-522-0685; etchrestaurant.com)
D’ANDREWS BAKERY AND CAFÉ
The Filbert
Your eyes will widen at the array of confectionary options, each a work of art, created by Andrews’ accomplished pastry chef, Dean Gallagher. The Filbert is his spectacular multi-layer wonder that starts with a feuilletine “crunch base,” followed by Tahitian Vanilla cremeux between two sheets of hazelnut praline, and alternating layers of chocolate mousse. Topped off with chocolate mirror glazing, a Nutella border, a spiral of milk chocolate ganache, and roasted hazelnut, this decadent dessert is a must-try. (555 Church St., 615-375-4934; dandrewsbakery.com)
THE CONTINENTAL
Apple and Mulled Cider
Pairing bold clean tastes in geometric forms, the work of pastry directors Michael Werrell and Keaton Vasek always holds seasonally driven unexpected pleasures. This winter, it was Apple and Mulled Cider petite warm beignets perched on apple butter, shortbread-skinned orbs of apple sherbet and vanilla mousse, and a pour of clarified cider sauce. This spring, it could be berries and peaches—we can’t wait to find out. (1000 Broadway Ste. 101, 615-622-3225; thecontinentalnashville.com)
