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Photos by Mayter Scott.
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One of Nashville’s great contributions to the American culinary canon is the meat-and-three. Michael Gilbert, chef and founder of MacHenry’s, is putting a new spin on a longstanding tradition.
The adage “necessity is the mother of invention” held true for Gilbert. His company, City Kitchen Catering, had outgrown its shared rental kitchen. Seeking another commercial workspace, Gilbert found a Jack in the Box on Murfreesboro Road—the fast-food restaurant had been vacant for nine years. Already equipped with hood-and-ansul system, grease trap, walk-in cooler, and work sinks, its prep area simply needed modest upgrades. The order counter, dining room, and drive-thru were all in impeccable shape. It seemed a shame not to use them somehow. The wheels of imagination spinning, Gilbert envisioned the location as dual-purposed: He’d continue his catering while offering meat-and-three fare for weekday lunch. He named it MacHenry’s Meat and Three after his grandfather, Charles MacHenry Banks, whom Gilbert admired for his openhearted, neighborly spirit.
“My grandfather was a friend to everyone he met. I wanted to honor him and have a place that had his kind of hospitality.”
You’ll be surprised by the appearance of the place. Gilbert hired Nashville Foodscapes to transform sections of greenspace on the property into flower, herb, and vegetable gardens. You’ll see a fig tree, bushes of rosemary and basil, pole beans climbing trellises, and black cherry tomato plants laden with ripening globes. Between the flourishing gardens and the drive-thru where you can order roast pork, mashed potatoes and gravy, and stewed greens with country ham, it’s unlike any meat-and-three you’ve experienced.
“We call it ‘Farm-to-Fast,’” Gilbert says with a laugh. “We serve you farm-fresh, made-from-scratch dishes in fast food fashion.”
While the drive-thru is convenient, the dining room is a light and pleasant spot to have your lunch. Walk up to the counter to order, and bring your debit or credit card—Gilbert has adopted a cashless system. The staff will serve you promptly.
Gilbert’s menu is well executed by culinary director Stephen Wilkerson and staff. Fork-tender pot roast is simmered with carrots and onions in lush tomato-rosemary gravy. Meatloaf is slathered in smoky bourbon-infused barbecue sauce. Panko-breaded chicken tenders are fried to a toothsome crunch. Vegetables are prepared with flair, with fried Brussels dusted in a barbeque spice blend and carrots glazed in maple syrup. A bubbly-browned mac-cheese is always on the menu, and with abundance of summer produce, squash casserole, corn pudding, and green beans with tobacco onions are sure-fire pleasers. Balance your meal with one of the cool salad choices: garden greens, coleslaw, or broccoli salad in tangy sweet-sour dressing.
If a meat-and three plate is more than you want, you can pare down to a meat with a side or two, or order one of the sandwiches (Word: the meatloaf on a potato roll with house-made chips is a winner.) For dessert, the banana pudding is the real deal. But if you need a sweet treat on the run, the marbled cream cheese brownie is perfect to grab and go.
(581 Murfreesboro Pike, 615-877-1636; machenrysmeat3.com)