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Ten years ago, award-winning chef Andrew Carmellini, with his NoHo Hospitality partners Luke Ostrom and Josh Pickard, opened The Dutch in Manhattan’s SoHo neighborhood. Embodying both the spirit and tastes of a great New York bistro/bar, it garnered the number one position in The New York Times Top 10 New Restaurants of 2011. Fast-forward a decade and a dozen NoHo Hospitality concepts later, Carmellini and partners have brought The Dutch to the Gulch.
Located on the ground floor of the gleaming new W hotel, The Dutch feels more like a neighborhood restaurant, hospitable and unpretentious. (Former NYT critic Sam Sifton dubs its style and fare “smart-casual.”) From the central bar, one view looks out onto a terrace for breezy outdoor dining; from the other, a room of four-tops and cozy leather booths, anchored by a huge blazing hearth. There are plenty of inviting spaces to sip a cocktail (the Manhattan Cobbler makes a tall, bittersweet quaff ) and savor The Dutch fare.
To be sure, there is nothing Dutch about the place. From raw bar to snacks to starters to entrees, the menu is peppered with soulful, global tastes. “The Dutch is a name,” Carmellini says. “The Dutch is my fever dream of an American restaurant that celebrates what my grandmother cooked and your grandmother cooked, wherever she was from.”
Indeed, the array represents the great melting pot of ingredients and flavors that comprise modern American cooking. In several instances, Carmellini got direction from his fellow chefs and their families in creating the dishes.
Seafood in any form is top-notch, and you’ll note flavor- profiles that tap into deep South, Latin American and Far East roots. We love the chilled Atlantic Red Crab Salad in Bloody Mary dressing—a brilliant way to magnify the taste of the sweet shellfish. The trio of fried oysters on petite sesame brioche rolls, which get their zing from Carmellini’s okra remoulade, are ideal alongside an icy Narragansett lager. Prized for its well-marbled orange flesh, sustainably raised Ora King Salmon is the centerpiece of the Tostada. Buttery cubes are layered with chipotle crema and pineapple pico on a crispy corn tortilla round. One bite and you’ll understand why Ora King is called the wagyu of salmon. There are terrific choices for your main course too—sea scallops sautéed in Mezcal butter, steamed sea bass in coconut curry, and roasted fillet of halibut nestled in Anson Mills grits, topped with rock shrimp in spicy red pepper sauce.
Vegetarians have narrow yet intriguing options, particularly within the snacks and appetizer sections. There are two that tread the Mediterranean rim: a mint- flecked Eggplant Dip with house-made crackers, and a gorgeous salad of smoked beets, citrus, and pistachio crumble piped with labneh. Smoked sea salt adds a compelling touch to the Blistered Shishitos—give a squeeze of lime and nosh away.Therealsleeperonthemenuischilledtrayofvegetablesendearinglycalled Betty Crocker Crudités, served with spring goddess dip. It’s a stunning (as in IG pic ready) arrangement of raw and blanched vegetables: heirloom tri-colored carrots, baby radishes, young squashes, cauliflower, stalks of broccolini, and stems of some flowering chamomile. More than visually appealing, they are delicious and healthful. We daresay Ms. Crocker never made such a splendid display.
There are some Southern specialties on the menu—foremost AC’s famous fried chicken and chipotle-scallion skillet cornbread. Indeed, you best not come to Nashville touting such things, unless they are superb. Carmellini’s bird is the word—crispy and juicy, with a brush of heat in its crust—and the chipotle spice baked into the cornbread balances its sweetness. You could order these and be utterly content.
That said, we’re drawn to the culinary road-less-traveled, preparations that take their cues from New York’s Chinatown and K-Town neighborhoods (and their grandmothers!) One example is the Canal Street Pork Ribs, which are slow-roasted to tenderness and painted in a sticky glaze redolent with Chinese 5-spice blend. These fall into the messy, bone-gnawing good category. The Grilled Hanger Steak entrée combines elements of Korean favorites, bulgogi, and bibimbap. The uber-tender beef is marinated and grilled to succulence. Accompanying the slices of meat is kimchi fried rice, and a portion of kimchi, capped with a sunny egg. A stripe of red sauce, made fiery sweet with gochujang, encirclestheplate.
Desserts become elevated by companion ice creams and sherbets, made in house. We enjoyed the puckery tartness of the Old School Salted Lime Pie, but it was the accompanying quenelle of passion fruit-mango ice cream that delighted us. Same with the Dark Chocolate Pudding Souffle: good on its own, but exceptional with the side of bourbon old fashioned ice cream.
Weekday breakfast and weekend brunch are currently offered, with lunch service on the horizon. The Dutch is off to a strong start, giving promise to another Carmellini concept poised to open in the W: Carne Mare is a high- end Italian chophouse highlighting celebratory fare, tableside preparations, and impeccable service.
THE DUTCH
300 12th Ave. S
615-379-9000
What to order:
- Betty Crocker Crudités, $16
- Canal Street Pork Ribs, $17
- Griller Hanger Steak, $33
- Old School Salted Lemon Pie, $12