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Chef Michael Hanna grew up in Memphis immersed in two food cultures: Sicily and the Deep South.
“I had the best of both worlds,” he says. That rich foundation propelled his career, and ultimately led him to launch his own business, St. Vito’s Focacciaria. His paternal grandmother was a nimble cook able to prepare delicious rib-sticking meals to satisfy her family of sweet potato farmers. His Sicilian mother, also accomplished in the kitchen, had four brothers, all of whom became chefs. As a kid, Hanna couldn’t wait to follow in their paths. At age seventeen, he embarked on the cooking life, working in great kitchens across the country. Seventeen years later, he introduced Nashvillians to authentic Sicilian street food.
It wasn’t his initial plan. Hanna arrived in Nashville six years ago to work under Ryan Poli at The Catbird Seat. After Poli finished his residency, Hanna went over to FOLK. The pandemic brought that to a halt. In an act of survival, he began making Sfincione—traditional Sicilian pizza—and selling it out of his home. What defines this pie is its base and shape. Focaccia dough bakes up thick yet light and spongy in a rectangular pan, then is cut into squares.
Classic sfincione is topped with tomato, caciocavallo cheese, fresh herbs, and breadcrumbs, although it lends itself to many variations. Hanna’s became fast sell-outs, enabling him to move operations out of his house. “St. Vito’s is for everyone, by everyone,” he says. “I am grateful to the community for its support.”
He first shared commissary space with The Grilled Cheeserie inside Hunter’s Station. Outgrowing that in mere months, he filled the void left by Setsun’s departure at Van Dyke Bed and Beverage. In residence since February, Hanna has ramped up his menu offerings, which he will change seasonally. He’ll always offer his Classic Vito and Potato Sfincione, the former layered with milled tomato, Fontina, fresh oregano, and breadcrumbs, the latter—roasted potatoes blanketed in lush Tallegio-potato cream. A third offering will change with the season and whim.
His Cazzilli—crunchy potato croquette—is heady bar fare, made more compelling by its dip—a tonnato (tuna) sauce punched up with green peppercorn and arugula. Torn Olive Salad is a vibrant meld of buttery Castelvetranos with celery, pickled golden raisins, garlic, chilis, olive oil, and lemon. Each of his dishes is simply, yet assertively seasoned. For his Broccoli plate, he poaches the vegetable in beurre blanc and plates it over bagna cauda creamed with walnuts. You’ll also find at least one seafood dish. Imparting tastes of sweet-tart-salt and smoke, his Shrimp Agro Dolce pairs well with a glass of prosecco. There are two indulgent desserts. Hanna’s pound cake is drenched in the juices of the fruit of the moment and topped in its corresponding marmalade. (In early spring, that fruit was Caracara orange; May is for Strawberries.) The prize is his Sardinian Bread Pudding. Made from the hollowed out interior of over-proofed bread, the finely crumbed pudding is flat top griddled, then pooled with saffron crème anglais and vibrant prickly pear coulis. Hanna finishes it with shaved white chocolate.
“This is how I like to cook,” he says. “There’s something familiar that tugs at your heartstrings. And at the same time, something that is new.” (Inside Hathorne, 4708 Charlotte Ave.; stvitonashville.com)