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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
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Minnie Morklithavong
Chef, author, and television host Anthony Bourdain said, “If I had to eat only in one city the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it. Most chefs I know would agree.” In his reasoning, he cited “Shokunin,” a Japanese word that attributes the lifelong devotion to one’s mastering an art: detailed, precise, intentional, the artisan utilizes the finest of ingredients and technique in their craft, pushing its boundaries. This ethos pervades Tokyo’s culture and food — evident in the brewing of coffee, the crafting of soba noodles, the preparation of sushi, and even the making of pizza.
Yes, pizza! On a 2024 trip to Tokyo, Nashvillians Ben and Mary Carlisle Gambill were blown away: the pizza was, without question, the best they had ever eaten. So many elements made it extraordinary. Locally sourced wood for the oven fire, pristine ingredients, a crust with a toothsome combination of puffed outer ridge (cornicione) and a thin, crisp center. Plus, a pinch of salt, at firing time. Upon returning home, the couple began their quest to replicate it. T hat led them to chef Sean Brock, who, on a similar mission, had already devoted untold hours to pizza-making perfection. With their visions aligned, together they forged the path to Sho Pizza Bar, its name honoring the mastery of shokunin.
Situated in Riverside Village — quickly becoming a foodie destination — Sho Pizza Bar embodies a warm, lively neighborhood vibe in modern minimalist design. The space is arranged with seating at the marble bar, a series of 2- and 4-tops, and the marble chef’s counter. Central is the grand Stefano Ferrara hand-built wood-fired oven and open kitchen. In full view are chefs Brock, Trench, and team deftly shaping airy crusts: canvases for sauces and creams, cured meats and cheeses, fresh herbs, and vegetables. At another table, a chef builds a large Caesar salad, finishing it in a cloud of shaved Parmesan. Behind them all is a glassed-in, climate-controlled room for making the dough — a process using a pizza-specific Italian flour “Oro di Napoli” and 72-hour fermentation. Stored above are stacks of oak and hickory, the chosen woods to give the kiss of Southern smoke to the pies. Sho buzzes with the joyous sounds of community, eating, drinking, working, and laughing, with an undercurrent of jazz — Coltrane’s Blue Train — playing throughout.
Delve into the menu, starting with drinks. From the craft cocktails, we recommend the Industry Spritz, a refreshing bitter orange quaff of Amaro dell’Etna, Aperol, and Bravazzi Blood Orange hard soda. It’s described as a “patio banger” and for a hot summertime, we couldn’t agree more. From the roster of wines, you might enjoy the Lambrusco, chilled, with a subtle fizz. There are N/A offerings from beer to Negroni stylings, as well as an intriguing Yuzu Arnold Palmer.
Before ordering your pizza, choose a bite or two from the selection of snacks and salads. Bluefin tuna crudo arrives bathed in Calabrian chili oil and crowned with arugula. Little gem lettuces folded with fresh dill, chives, and toasted benne seeds are brightened in honey-yuzu vinaigrette. The bruschetta of the moment is deconstructed: a bowl of creamy Stracciatella cheese dotted with English peas, shaved sugar snaps, fresh mint, and lime, to spread on toasted crostinis, cleverly made from leftover dough. It tastes like the best of spring.
Now, for the hard decisions: which pie(s) to order. Each is about 10 inches — personal size. Be sure to check out the blackboard for the daily “SHO”-stopper. On our visit, it was ramp and guanciale pizza, with tomato sauce, Parmesan, chilis, and poached egg — a true showstopper. The Mushroom, layered with mushroom cream, smoked mozzarella, locally sourced wood-fired mushrooms, and fresh thyme had intense umami tastes. It comes with a wedge of lemon; be sure to give a squeeze to punch up the flavors. Charred onions and onion cream bring savory sweetness to The Country Boy, featuring The Hamery’s country ham.
That said, we found that the ones we loved most were the simplest. Like the Bianca, which highlighted the specialty handmade cheeses — Fior di Latte and Mozzarella di Bufala — sourced from Il Casolare in Alvignano, Italy. A shower of Meyer lemon zest, baked into the pie, made it memorable. Chef Brock’s favorite is the Marinara, and we wouldn’t have tried it except at his insistence. What a wonder. Who knew that four basic toppings: tomato sauce, a lot of finely shaved garlic, Sicilian oregano, and roasted-to-candied grape tomatoes could afford so much flavor and satisfaction?
The SHO way to go is with a few friends to order a few pies. You’ll be given a pair of shears to cut them into whatever sizes you like! And don’t pass by the dips — miso ranch, Stracciatella, Calabrian chili honey — all of which make terrific dunks for your puffy crust ends.
For dessert, enjoy the tiramisu dusted in green matcha powder. Eye-catching and flavor-packed, it’s a clever complement to the creamy mascarpone.
A final word — should you have leftover slices, take them home to enjoy the next day. Cold Sho pizza is still very good pizza. And it reheats beautifully in a cast iron skillet, retaining both pillow puff and thin crunch.