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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
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Mayter Scott
In 1960, Federico Fellini’s film La Dolce Vita captured viewers worldwide for its depiction of the glamorous, hedonistic world of Rome; propelling the idea of what la dolce vita — the sweet life — encompasses: pleasure, indulgence, living in the moment. When you come to V Modern Italian, recently opened in the Gulch, you will surely sample that sweet life.
Named for the Roman numeral five, harkening to the five senses, V is 7,000 square feet of sensation. The visual feast begins as you approach the restaurant: the reception and al fresco dining along the sidewalk. It continues, as you enter the expansive interior, lush with greenery, numerous plantings, a large tree, the walls alive with the fabulous murals of the international artist duo, PichiAvo: brilliant works that meld graffiti street art with Neo-classical imagery. All the elements, in a riot of color and texture: glitzy lighting, plush seating, a tower of a bar, are punctuated by big energy — the pulsing beat over the sound system and the buzz of all the beautiful guests ensconced in a beautiful place. To say V is Instagrammable is an understatement.
Nashville is the restaurant’s premier entry in the United States, with locations serving the sweet life in places as far-flung as Stockholm, Antwerp, Riyadh, and Istanbul. Michelin-starred chef Stefano Ciotti (his restaurant, Nostrano, in Pesaro, Italy) created the menu to highlight Italian classics, yet in a modern voice. You’ll notice ingredient enhancements — Parmesan foam, black truffle crema, tomato powder, chili threads — peppered throughout the menu. In like fashion, Italian mixologist Federico Pollarolo enlivens traditional cocktails. Savor the NegroVi — where Ramazzotti Rosato replaces Campari — imparting complex notes of citrus and hibiscus. Mammarita is the lush marriage of Tequila blanco and Amaretto liqueur, accented with burnt orange and lime. The Velvet Espresso martini — Tito’s vodka, espresso liqueur, salted caramel, and cold brew — falls into that dangerously good category.
Cocktails and antipasti go hand-in-hand. The Burrata Olivata is always a pleaser; the uber-creamy cheese surrounding grape tomatoes, herbmarinated olives, and basil oil. Planks of warm rosemary focaccia are worthwhile as an accompaniment, also enjoyable in a tasting format with balsamic-laced olive oil and the house marinara. A combination of ground beef, pork, and veal makes tender, richly flavored meatballs — another shareable dish. Dining with a larger group? Consider the three-tiered tower of antipasti, which includes garlicky bruschettas, burrata in roasted tomato cream, assorted Parmesan-dusted vegetable chips with truffle aioli, and herbed olives.
T he kitchen turns out top-notch wood-fired pizzas. An Italian sourdough starter that traces its roots to the 18th century is the leavening for the dough, which is fermented for 24 hours. The 13-inch pie is ideal for a meal but also works as an app to share. You’ll find the usual suspects like Margherita and Pepperoni (however, punched up) and some house specials. The Sweet Hot Italian is a favorite. Topping the bubbly melt of fior de latte mozzarella are spicy rounds of soppressata, red onion, rosemary, thyme, parmesan, and drizzles of chili-infused honey, all of which brings the heat, nicely.
Of course there are pasta dishes, too. Don’t pass them up! The foundation of each is a freshly made specialty semolina pasta from the D’Alelio family. T he Scampi Reginette — shrimp in a rosy sauce of lobster-shallot-sundried tomato over rippled ribbon noodles — has a rich depth of flavor. Pasta Alfredo gets the chef Stefano twist, sparking the traditional cream sauce with bits of roasted tomatoes, basil, and crumbled parmesan.
There are a handful of entrees — secondi, or second courses — to tempt you. Beef short ribs in Barolo wine are braised to fork-tenderness, scattered with a few petite biquinho chiles, which impart a mild smokysweet bite. The seared 11-ounce bone-in pork chop is finished with creative elements: balsamic glaze, a touch of hot honey, and a garnish of red cabbage, basil, and lime.
Sweets for the sweet life! The V version of tiramisu includes dark chocolate shavings, cocoa dusting, and a Baileys cream liqueur-soaked sponge, presented in a lovely footed glass bowl. It is delicious, but the Sicilian Almond Cake is even better. Soft, moist, citrus-scented, amaretto-glazed — it has a simple elegance, and a lighter finish to what might be a heavy meal.
A final note: moving into the evening, after 9 p.m., the energy shifts to a clubby, more party-like vibe. There might even be an explosive napkintwirling parade of the staff with guests joining in the twirl at their tables: celebratory, a little raucous, and a lot of fun.